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 The supreme of all dharmas is verily chanting the divine names of Lord…….Sri Vishnusahsranama ………..a  divine gift from Bhishmacharya 

After the  great Mahabharata war, Bhismacharya was lying on the bed of arrows and he let the world know that he was waiting for the auspicious time [punya kala] for the sun orienting its direction northwards [Uttarayan] for  leaving  his mortal  body. Deep inside his heart he was  praying  for Lord Krishna to bless him with his darshan during his last moments of his life out of sheer compassion to fructify all the austerities and penance [tapas] that he performed all his life as a bachelor . 

Bhismacharya was patiently waiting  with the pain on his body and  being a nice devotee  had the firmness  not to ask directly to the lord for relief and instead  was waiting for the Lord to see how he was going to present himself in front of him. The lord also acted in the same way as his devotee. Since Bhismacharya did not directly call upon Lord Sri Krishna, the Lord also decided that he will not use that as a direct reason for giving him his darshan.

It is also revealed , before the onset of the war, Arjuna was perplexed and  Lord Sri Krishna gave the Bhagavat Gita to completely clarify all the concerns of Arjuna  and  indirectly to the humankind.    The whole of Dwaraka was eagerly waiting for the Lord’s arrival in Dwaraka after the end on Mahabharatha war.  

  Lord  Krishna who was then getting ready to depart to Dwaraka and Yudishtira wanted to delay the lord’s departure for some reason. Yudhistira cited his doubt to make Lord Krishna stay in Kurukshetra for some more time. He submits to Lord humbly and pleads  , Oh Lord Krishna! I cannot sit on the throne which is stained by the blood of all my relatives and all my grand sir’s. I am not unsure about the righteous path and am confused over the path of dharma.”

Lord Sri Krishna thought that he probably had to bestow Yudhistira with another sermon of Bhagavat Gita but decided not to do so. He decided to give him a better option. He told Yudistira that the best person to seek knowledge on dharma is the great Dharmatma, who is none other than Bhismacharya. He goes on to say that when someone is in a disturbed state of mind, it is verily the sadhus who can give the peace of mind. The lord said “When Arjuna was confused; I thought that my discourse would make his mind light and devoid of any doubts. But I later realized that he was all the more confused and worried.”

So he told Yudishtira that he was going to lead him to a satsang which was a divine communion with a great devotee of the lord. That great devotee was Bhismacharya. So the entire retinue now proceeded towards Bhismacharya in the war field .Bhishma  was lying on a bed of arrows with no food, water and he was sustaining his life only by uttering the Lords holy name silently and living with  sheer divine grace.

The moment Bhismacharya saw Lord Krishna along with Yudistira, his face  brightened with  a smile. He understood that Lord Krishna had given him darshan. Lord Krishna requested Bhismacharya to clarify Yudhistira’s questions on dharma.Lord Krishna had thus created this situation and used this as a pretext to come before Bhismacharya. 

He wanted to show the greatness of Bhisma. Infact he told Yudishtira that when people are about to depart this world, they would disclose the supreme of all secrets which they have been guarding all their lives. This is akin to the father giving all his wealth to his son only during his last moments. The lord advised him to clarify all his questions related to the highest dharma from Bhisma and Yudhistira was very happy to do so.

Later, all the Pandavas and Draupathi arrived at the Kurukshetra battle field where Bhismacharya was lying on the bed of arrows. Bhismacharya’s eyes  looked upon the lord, the Pandavas and Draupathi and he became very emotional.. Bhismacharya started off by saying that for even wise people some things are not apparent. He cited Draupathi as an example. She was born from a sacrificial fire as a daughter of a great king.

She later got married to five valiant princes and Lord Krishna was her family friend. It is to be noted that Lord Krishna even washed the feet of the guests of Pandavas.  Such was the love and compassion the lord had for the Pandavas. He even drove the chariot for Arjuna. But she had to go through hardships that one could ever imagine. 

Bhismacharya in a perplexed tone said that this indeed worried him. Finally raising his hand he said “Sarvam kala krutham manyae” It is all the play of time [kala] and none other than Lord Krishna can even comprehend this.

Time is no different from Lord Krishna as the lord appears as time outside. Yudishtira then started to voice his concerns on dharma and requested Bhismacharya to expound on Dharma. Hearing his question, Bhisma started to explain all the dharmas –

Raja dharma – The dharma for politics

Moksha dharma – The dharma for different stages of one’s life as a student, as a house-holder

Varma Dharma – The dharma  that one needs to adhere by someone who is ready for renunciation

Ashrama dharma – The dharma for a renunciant……..

Bhisma also elucidates  on the prayachitha dharma [pavana dharma]. This is the dharma or the set of guidelines that one needs to follow if one commits a mistake. In Sanatana Dharma if one falls back from dharma, there is this wonderful dharma called prayachitha dharma that restores one in his mainstream.

He also talked about this exceptional dharma. After patiently listening to the discourse on dharma by Bhisma, Yudishtira, who is the very embodiment of dharma then asks  Bhisma to expound on the supreme of all dharmas.  Is this a valid question? Can one ever do a comparison between dharmas.

Every dharma is unique in its own way. It was only after Yudhistira put forth this question that he said that the supreme of all dharmas is verily chanting the divine names of Lord Vishnu. It is superior to any other dharma. It is indeed greatest of all dharma, jnana and bhakti yogas. The chanting of divine names of the lord exists independently of other dharmas.

Mahabhishak was an ardent devotee of  Dhanvantari the divine physician and an incarnation of Lord MahaVishnu.  Mahabhishak appeared  as Shantanu whose  son was  Bhishmacharya . Bhishma blessed us all by revealing Sri Vishnu Sahasranama which has the powers to cure  any disease  which is  in samsara .

Vasunandini  and Prabhasa made it possible for us to drink the milk given by the cow of true knowledge to attain everlasting youth. The milk is given to us in the form of Sri Vishnu Sahasranama and we will be blessed with everlasting youth when we are liberated from this prison of samsara and are united with Lord Sriman Narayana.

All the great commentators of Bhagavad Gita and Vishnu Sahasarnama gleefully point out of the very fact that chanting the divine names of the lord is indeed the greatest of all dharmas in the age of Kali.

Human mind thinks that if a path has lot of intricacies then it is a supreme. Human mind  also thinks that if a path is rare then it is great. The same mind also thinks that a simple path cannot be a great path.  The  great Azhwars , Acharyas and advanced devotees from all the vaishnava schools  justifiy  why the path of nama sankirtan is indeed supreme. There are six reasons  to substantiate the greatness of this path. Firstly there is no violence involved. It  is easy to perform, for it has no  expectations  on  six fronts – himsa [violence], purushantara [irrespective of caste/creed], desha [place], kala [time], dravyantara [no material cost], niyama [no rules]. There are absolutely no rules.

Namasankirtan  unites  everybody. It unites the  countries, people, cultures and races. People come together irrespective of their religion, tradition and philosophies they follow and  thus  be united by the bond of love which will be further strengthened by the chanting of the divine names of the lord.

The battle of Kurukshertra took only twenty years before the start of the Kali Yuga which is about 5200 years ago.

So Bhismacharya gave a fitting dharma which logically, philosophically fulfills the principles of Bhagavad Gita.

Srimad Bhagavatam fulfills Bhagavad Gita and it explains Gita with lot of relish by quoting examples and anecdotes.

At the end of Mahabharatha war, Yudhistira was bestowed with the thousand names of the lord, the Vishnu Sahasarnama.

Sree Vishnu sahasranama Sthothra, is a garland of the thousand  divine names of Lord Vishnu, strung into a beautiful sthothra by the legendary Rishi “Veda Vyasa” , acknowledged as one of the greatest exponents of the Vedic wisdom.  The first 13 stanzas are the dialog between Yudhisthira and Bhishmacharya .  The next three stanzas are the customary Dhyana verses…. It is  said that in Veda Vyasa’s 149th chapter Anushasanika Parvam of the Great Epic Mahabharatha,  the Vishnu Sahasranama Stotra,  the 1000 names of the Lord Vishnu  are written..

The person who requested for it is the Dharma Putra and the person who gave it is Dharma Swaroopa, the very embodiment of dharma, Bhismacharya. The witness to this wonderful episode was none other than the end of all dharma, Lord Sri Krishna.

It was in such a beautiful way that the chanting of the divine names of the lord was introduced to the world in such an auspicious setting and amidst a holy group.  After hearing this, Yudhistira was completely satiated and relieved.

Sage Veda Vyasa very joyfully included the divine name chanting in Mahabharatha.Satsang brings in the aura of peace, ushers into clarity and keeps our intellect intact so that we can enjoy happiness and love of the lord.

HARI NAAM SANKIRTAN KI JAI

Adiyen Ramanuja dasan

Pics courtesy :Google images

O Rama nee naama memi ruchira!
One of his compositions

O,Rama Ninamamu Emi Ruchira ,Enta Ruchira?
( O Rama How tasty your name?)
O Rama nee naama memi ruchira
O Rama, how tasty your name is
Sri Rama nee naama mentha ruchira

Sri Rama, how delicious your name is
Madhu rasamula kante dadhi ghruthamula kante adhikamou
It is sweeter than nectar and sweeter than yoghurt or ghee
nee namam emi ruchira
Your name is so tasty
Draksha phalamula kanna ikshu rasamula kanna

It is tastier than grapes and tastier than sugar cane juice
Pakshi vahana nee namam emi ruchira
O lord who rides on an eagle (Garuda), you name is so tasty
Anjana thanaya hruth kanja dalamulandu ranjillu
O Rama, your name resides in the petals of a lotus flower which is the heart of Lord Hanuman who is the son of Anjani
nee namam emi ruchira
Your name is so tasty
Sada sividu madi sada bhajinchedi Sadanamdamagu

Parama Shiva chants your name all the time, chanting your name gives happiness all the time namam emi ruchira
Your name is so tasty
Saramuleni samsaramunaku Shanthakaramagu
To this flavourless life, your name gives peace namam emi ruchira
Your name is very tasty
Sarananna janamula saraguna rakshimchu
You come straight away to protect people who ask for your help
Birudu kaligina namam emi ruchira

That is what your title is and your name is so tasty
Kari raja Prahlada Dharanija Vibhishanula kachina
Kari raja (Gajendra), Prahlada and Goddess Sita who is the daughter of goddess earth were saved by saying your name
nee namam emi ruchira
your name is very tasty
Kadali Kharjura phala rasamula kadhikamu

Your name is tastier than the fruit juices of banana and dates
pathitha pavana nee namam emi ruchira
You save people who are unfortunate (or unlucky). Your name is very tasty.
Thumburu Naradulu dambu meeraga
Sages like Thumburu and Narada very proudly
ganambu chesedi nee namam emi ruchira
sing your name(or sing your stories). Your name is very tasty.
Araya Bhdrachala Sri Ramadasuni prema nelina
O Rama, you looked after Bhadrachala Ramadasu with affection
namam emi ruchira
Your name is very tasty.

Most of   the Bhakta  Ramadas’ moving kirtans were penned during the twelve years  he spent in the lonely  prison cell.  Ramadas sings, “Deenadayalo! Deenadayalo! Deenadayaapara Deva Dayalo!” — Oh! Compassionate one! Oh! compassionate One! — At the time when he has been imprisoned by the Nizam…….

. Ramadas sings this Kirtan calling his Prabhu Rama as a Compassionate one. The hot sun is like the furnace — bound inside the prison cell — he had been whipped severely — he lived for 12 long years in this jail all alone — living in that cell one cannot know if it was day or night —

It was then that he sang, ‘Oh! Compassionate one! Oh! Compassionate one!’

What deep love (‘priyam’) must he have possessed for Rama?

He built the temple for Rama.

But he was imprisoned and whipped frequently.

And he sang, ‘Oh! Rama! I cannot bear Your Grace!’ — ‘Deenadayalo! Deenadayalo!’

 The depth of his worship is seen in that with his fingernails he has carved on the rocky wall of the prison the form of Lord Rama, Sita, Lakshmana and Hanuman.

He started  worshipping these deities . The prison is still to be seen in Golconda (near Hyderabad) and one gets to see this carving of Ramadas even today!

Ramadas has written about 16000 Kritis on Lord Rama though what we know and sing is much less.

All the 16000 Kritis of Ramadas have been painted on wooden boards and hung on the marble walls in a ‘dhyana mandap’ built by the Government in memory of the great Rama Bhakta.

At the entrance of this mandap is a big statute of Ramadas in the attire of a Diwan while outside on top of the entrance wall is a small statue as the humble servant of the Lord!

Video credits :  Play evenmusic , sanatana ,

Please check adiyens Travelogue to LORDS HOLY ABODES .

..Sri Rama Anu Yathra ..A piligrims diary

https://atomic-temporary-2692795.wpcomstaging.com/2011/01/26/piligrim-diary-to-sri-rama-holy-abodes/

Jai Jai Sree Sita Rama
Adiyen Ramanuja dasan

HARI VITTAL………

Jai Jai Ramakrishna Hari

Jai Jai    Panduranga Hari

Jai Jai Ramakrishna Hari

Jai Jai Panduranga Hari

Sri Rakumaayi sametha Sri Panduranga parabrahmane namah

Srimathey Ramanujaya namah

Asmath acharyar Sri Mudaliaandaan Swamy Thiruvadigaley Saranam

On the  auspicious appearance day of  our Poorva Acharyar  Sri Sri Annavillapan Swamy of Mudaliandaan lineage(the foremost acharyar after Sri Mudaliandan  )-“THIRU MAASI KETTAI”, adiyen prostrates to the lotus feet of asmath acharyar to grace me with the knowledge of sharing our recent  pilgrimage  to the places connected to  Lord  Vittal  Pandurangan’s devotees.

Adiyen is greatly indebted to  His Holiness  Sri Sri Muralidhar Swamy who personally visited  all the places and telecasted the same in Vijay T.V. as “Veedu Thedi Varuvan Vittalan”.  The craving to visit these holy places finally fructified after 2 years. Adiyen used to read “Maha Bhakta Vijayam” –a compilation of stories of various devotees ,especially  Lord Pandurangan devotees and used to cherish them.

However the T.V.program induced the desire and confidence  to visit these holy  places personally.   Adiyen with family planned to first take the blessings of the famous devotees of Lord Pandurangan popularly known as  Lord Vittaljee in Maharashtra  before having HIS darshan at Pandharapur.

We visited the places sanctified by Sri Bhanudasar, Sri Janardhan Swamy, Eknath Maharaj, Jnaneswar, Tukaram Maharaj, Namdev, Chokamela,Sakkubai, Jaanabai, Gora Kumbar, Kurmadasar, Sant Savanta Mali in this yatra.

A brief note about the places is mentioned at the end of this writeup. Though we had darshan of this holy dhaam twice we wanted to have darshanam of all the mahasants before we seek the LOTUS FEET of Shri Vittaljee.

OUR TRAVELOGUE…

The moment one thinks of Vittala..the devotees  the kirtan and the yatra is cherished ..

watch the clip …..

We proceeded to  Aurangabad from Secunderabad on 5th March night by Narsapur-Nagersol Express and reached Aurangabad at 6.30 A.M. on 6th morning. 

Keeping Aurangabad as base, our itinary was to visit  the great santh Sri Sri Janardhana Swami mandir in Dhaulagiri,  Santh Eknath temple in Soolipanjan where he meditated for 12 years,  then proceed  to  Prathistanapuram(Paithan) and visit Eknath Maharaj’s house, his Divya Samadhi mandir on the banks of River Godavari, Naag ghat where  Santh Jnaneshwar Maharaj made a buffalo recite Vedas, visit Aape Gaon-the birth place of  Santh Jnaneswar and Nevasa-where  Santh Jnaneswar wrote Bhaavartha Deepika-the Marathi translation of Srimad Bhagavad Gita. 

These places are in different routes.

Dhaulagiri, Grushneshwar and Soolipanjan are  in “Aurangabad-Dhauladabad” route, Paithan is on the southern side of Aurangabad, Aape gaon and Nevasa are in “Aurangabad-Pune” route.  To visit all these places and to be dropped at Nevasa bus stop, we had finalized  a cab Indica for Rs.3000/- by contacting Mr.Mahender(07387900950) who operates M/s Sai Baba Travels  in Aurangabad .

Mandir up the hill and finally the Samadhi (resting place ) of Sri Janardhana Swamy at the mountain peak.

The driver who was ready to pick us up from Aurangabad station took us to a nearby hotel for refreshing ourselves. The lodge charged 300/- for one hour and  Rs.50/- for providing hot water.  Mr.Mahender called up saying that he would arrange a devotee-driver who was very familiar with  all these places.   

 Aurangabad is a tourist centre with more monuments and sight seeing and so the drivers are familiar with only such places.  We need to ensure that we get a good devotee driver who is aware of the temples in Paitan, Dhauladabad, Nevasa, Aape Gaon. Somehow Vittaljee  took care of  our itenary in HIS divine way ..

We proceeded chanting the  juicy mantra JAI JAI RAMAKRISHNA HARI …All through the drive, we were listening to   Vittal’jees  abhangs and bhajans .  The driver first took us to Dauladabad which is about 12 kms from Aurangabad.  The holy footprints of Sri Janardhana Swami who was  Eknath Maharaj’s guru is here up above the hill .  Dauladabad Fort is a heritage monument and attracts many tourists everyday.  The entrance ticket is Rs.5/- per person.  We can see cannons and other military equipments, the  fortress which guarded the kingdom, Bharat Mata temple, Chand Minar, Ganesh mandir.

SHRI JANARDHAN SWAMYS DARSHAN AT DAULATABAD FORT TOP     

This fort has a sad past about the glorious Hindu kings .However  we  walked through the pavement surrounded by gardens for about 10 minutes and reached the foot of the hill which is like an entrance.  From here, the ascent to the hill starts.  Initially, the pathway is quite broad with big boulders on the way, we need to cross a narrow wooden bridge to gain entry into another hill.

There are about 510 steep steps to ascend to the hill.  At some places, the steps are very broad and at some places, there are  steep steps about 2 feet high.  The ascent is challenging especially when we have to enter into a pitch-dark caves where the path is very narrow ,uneven  and the steps are very steep. This itself is known as “Andheri gate”. We were groping in the dark unable to find the way.  Luckily, the  flashlight in my daughter’s cell came handy and we managed to find our way. After crossing this, the ascent is comparatively easier with the roof open to the sky.

Most of the tourists picnic here.  It takes about 1.5 hours to reach the hill.  On the way, there is a small temple for Vinayaka (Ganesh mandir). A lady who was taking care of the temple said that the cave  we were seeking is very far and as we were totally exhausted, we half –heartedly decided to return. Suddenly  an elderly person who was climbing very fast offered us  help saying  that he was also going to have darshan of  Sri Janardhan Swami and encouraged us by sharing the pastimes. He said that it would take only 20 minutes from Ganesh mandir to reach the temple.

This boosted our energy levels and continued our journey.  Beyond Ganesh mandir, a flight of steps leads us to a mantapam from where we can have a bird’s view of the entire city.

The cool breeze is soothing for the stress undertaken by us.  Further ascent of about 20 steep uneven steps  leads us to the mountain peak.

We have to get down about 5 steps to enter into the  cave where Sri Janardhana Swamy used to meditate daily and finally took Samadhi.  At the entrance , we find the words  “Sri Janardhana Swami Samadhi” painted on the cave.

Eknath Maharaj, one of the foremost devotees of Pandurangan who is known for “Guru bhakti” served Sri Janardhana Swamy at this place for 8 years without expecting anything in return.  The guru pleased with his services blessed him to have his diety, Sri Dattatareya’s darshan.  While Eknath was returning from Godavari, Lord Dattatareyar (the embodiment of the Trinities-Brahma, Vishnu, Shiva who is seen holding the divine weapons and with 4 vedas as four dogs and dharma devathai as ) gave darshan .

Eknath paid obeisances to the God and was as usual serving his guru with unperturbed mind and dedication.  When questioned by his guru, he replied that his guru was “everything for him” and hence not excited having Dattatareya’s darshan.

We entered the dark cave and on the left most corner , we can find the footprints of Sri Janardhana Swami.  We  Offered dry fruits to him and placing few Tulasi leaves prayed to him to bestow bhakti in us and bless to serve our acharyar forever.       Profusely thanked the elderly person who guided us all through the trek, ( Was it Vittaljees leela )  especially the return trip when adiyen could not cope up with my daughter’s speed and had to cross the dark cave.

It was as if Lord Pandurangan HIMSELF came to my rescue as I was all alone. That devotee patiently accompanied me all through the trek.    Adiyen was amazed to note that I didn’t have the nagging knee pain which I usually get even if I ascend about 20 steps and was still energetic.   While returning, we visited Ganesh mandir and finally reached the foot of the hills at about 11.30 a.m.

That elderly person guided me till I reached the foot of the hill and went away.  The compassion of the Lord cannot be described in words.  This incident enhanced my faith in the Lord manifold times .  The Supreme Lord once again proved that HE is “bhakta vatsalan “ and “”aapath bhandhavan” .  That person advised us to visit Grushneshwar-one of the 12 jyotirlingas before the temple is closed in the afternoon and then proceed to Soolipanjan which is about 10 kms from Grushneshwar.

Grushneshwar darshan 

Grushneshwar is about 12 kms from Dauladabad Fort and about 4 kms from Ellora caves.  After replenishing ourselves with sugarcane juice, we drove to Grushneshwar.  Being Pournami, the temple was open and continuous abhishekam to ParamaShiva amidst chanting of Rudram and  chamakam was pleasing .  We offered bilva leaves, flowers, sweets to Lord Shiva -the foremost devotee of Lord Vishnu while few devotees were personally pouring milk and water on the Shiva lingam .

Despite asking the driver to take us to Soolipanjan, he straightaway drove to Paithan which is about 84 kms from Grushneshwar and 60 kms from Aurangabad station saying that while returning we would be visiting Soolipanjan. We drove for about an hour and  reached Paithan at about 4 p.m.

Finding Eknath Maharaj’s Samadhi mandir was not difficult.  There are two entrances to the temple known as “Datta mandir” and another “Godavari darshan”.

This holy dhaam  is on the banks of River Godavari.  It is advisable to do  purification (prokshanam)  of the holy river (sprinkling water) on the head instead of a holy bath.  Few shops sell puja articles and sweets at the entrance.

Eknath Maharaj lived for about 64 years in this world.  He along with his wife took “jala Samadhi”(they walked into Godavari river) and disappeared informing his followers that on the third day, they would find a banyan leaf and a Tulasi leaf floating on the river and advised them to build a Samadhi for him at the place where the leaves float.  A beautiful Samadhi with his footprints enshrined with silver is constructed.

A big hall for accommodating devotees to  perform NAMA SANKIRTANA (bhajan)  is also present inside the mandir. 

An elderly pujari was continuously reading  “Nath Bhagavatham” while another pujari was offering the holy water to the devotees.  Beautiful pictures of Eknath Maharaj in deep meditation, the picture of Lord Dattatareya in the centre  along with  Sri Janardhana Swami and Eknath Maharaj on either sides, a beautiful picture of  Lord Vijaya Pandurangan, a rare picture of Bhakti devi and the ways of attaining the Lord through bhakti devi-the nava vidha bhaktis namely sravanam, kirtanam, smaranam, paadha sevanam, daasyam,sakhyam, atma nivedanam on the left side of the Samadhi   decorate the walls of the temple.

On either sides of Eknath Maharaj’s Samadhi, we can find small samadhis of his father and his son.  We were lost in the thoughts of Eknath Maharaj’s vaibhavam and were doing bhajan for about half an hour.  The elderly priest who initially was not ready to open the grilled gate, opened it later to enable us to take photographs and videos of the Samadhi. WE thought that it was Eknath Maharaj sankalpam to bless us with a clear view of his charan padukas.

The priest removed the flowers to enable us to have clear darshan of the holy feet and showed us the water which oozes from the Samadhi  continously.

He gave a coconut and few flowers and tulasi leaves as prasadam.  The elderly priest with tears welling up his eyes narrated Eknath Maharaj’s vaibhavam in detail :

• Jnaneswar was born as Eknath and his brother, Nivrutti deva who was Jnaneswar Maharaj’s guru was reborn as Janardhana Swami. As Jnaneswar lived for only 21 years and didn’t get enough time to save his gurudeva, he appeared as Eknath Maharaj and served his guru for 12 years.  Lord Vittal pleased with Eknath’s guru bhakti served him as “Kandiya Krishnan” for 12 years.  (This once again endorses our Vaishnava philosophy that we should serve  the bhagavathas (devotees) to attain God.  Adiyen recollected Thiruvaimozhi 8-10   “ Nedumaarku adimai….” wherein Swamy Nammazhwar emphasizes service to devotees.)
• Eknath’s bheej (disappearance day) falls on sashti thithi after Holi Pournami. All the important incidents related to Eknath Maharaj like his birth, guru upadesam, Lord’s darsanam, his disappearance day  happened on Sashti thithi.
• Four days prior to Eknath’s bheej (disappearance day) i.e. on Dwaidyai thithi which coincides with Tukaram’s Bheej ,devotees bring water and pour in the well. On Sashti thithi, when the Lord HIMSELF pours water into the well, it gets filled up and starts overflowing.  The water from the well is then distributed as Eknath’s prasadam.  Thousands of devotees assemble at the Samadhi mandir on Sashti thithi and continuously do kirtan.
• Eknath Maharaj was an embodiment of patience, compassion, universal love. He used to see Vittal in everyone. He never used to get angry for all the inflictions caused to him by the people around.  The priest narrated an incident when a person tried to provoke Eknatha Maharaj by spitting on him several times until he got exhausted.  Eknath used to patiently used to take a dip in Godavari to clean this.
• Lord Pandurangan used to assist Eknath in performing aaradhana daily by bringing flowers, grinding sandal paste, keeping the altar ready and used to assist Eknath’s wife in buying groceries and vegetables, cutting vegetables and doing all household chores. The utensils used by the Lord, the grinding stone etc can be seen even today.  The Lord used to fan Eknath .  There are two red painted pillars in Eknath’s house.  Eknath used to lean on the left pillar while Lord Pandurangan as Kandiya Krishnan used to lean on the right side pillar and fan him.
• Lord Krishna used to fetch water from Godavari and store it in a small well inside the house. This can be seen even today.

• Once while Eknath Maharaj was making preparations for performing shraddham (yearly puja done for departed souls), a low caste lady who was passing by expressed her desire to taste the food as the aroma was irresistible. Eknath immediately invited them to his house and fed them . The other Brahmins got infuriated with this action and decided to stay away from participating in the ceremony and ensured that no one from neighbouring villages would attend. Eknath Maharaj invoked the Lord, and Lord Panduranga along with Brahma and the pithru devatas came ,completed the rituals and partook the food offerings.
• Like Kooratathzhwan, Eknath Maharaj used to do dhadhiyaaradhanai kainkaryam(feeding devotees daily ) in huge numbers. That place can be seen in Eknath Maharaj’s house.
• Eknath is personification of “Acharyar Bhakti” like Madurakavi Azhwar, Anantazhwan.
• All the Gods were pleased with Eknath Maharaj. Lord Dattatareya appeared before him and gave darshan.  Lord Dattatareya stood guard at Eknath Maharaj’s house entrance.  We can find the pictures of Garudan and Dattatareyar at the entrance on either sides. Durga devi used to do the cleaning work while Lord Krishna left Dwaraka  and served him for 12 years as “Kandiya Krishnan”. Lord Triyambakeswar advised a devotee who was suffering from leprosy to partake the sripadha theertham(water used for washing feet) of Eknath Maharaj and he was cured.
• A poor lady who desired to feed 1000 people was advised by the mahants to invite Eknath Maharaj for lunch as it was equal to feeding 1000 people. The lady informed this to Eknath Maharaj and requested him to accept her invite.  Evknath’s son who was present there was wondering how it could be equal to feeding 1000 people.  After Eknath honoured prasadam served by the lady, he asked his son to remove the banana leaf and clean the place.  The son was perplexed as he had to remove 1000 leaves.

• A rich person made a beautiful vigraham of Pandurangan to be worshipped by him in his house. The Lord repeatedly appeared in that person’s dream and expressed HIS desire to stay in Eknath’s house.   Finally, the rich person came to Eknath’s house, informed him about his dream and handed over the diety to Eknath amidst assembled devotees.  Eknath was overwhelmed at the Lord’s compassion and offered HIM butter.  Immediately, to everyone’s surprise, the Lord removed HIS hand from HIS right waist and lent forward to accept the butter.  Hence, we can find Lord Vijaya Pandurangan with HIS left hand on HIS waist and HIS right palm forward. This diety is in Eknath Maharaj’s house and is being worshipped by his descendants.  Only at the time of abhishekam, we can have the darshan of the hand when all the floral decorations are removed.

EKNAATH MAHARAJS HOUSE AND LORDS SERVICES AT HIS PLACE 

We requested a vendor outside the Samadhi mandir to accompany us to  Santh Eknath’s house and Naag ghat who could speak in Hindi.  Most of the residents speak in Marathi and we were finding it difficult to converse with them.  Luckily, we found this person who was willing to guide us.  The temple pujari informed that they also reside in that place .  This is about 2 kilometres from the Samadhi.  Eknath’s forefather, Sri Bhanudasar also lived in this place.  Driving past narrow,unleveled,hilly roads , we reached the temple.  Renovation work is going on in the temple.  At the entrance, we can find the pictures of Garudan and Dattatareyar as guards.

In the centre, there is a big hall where few devotees were singing abhangs, while another devotee was spotted with Tambura in his hand.  On either sides of the hall, there are rooms where Eknath Maharaj’s descendants reside. On the left side in the main hall, we can find a small well which was closed with a stone and protected by grills on all sides.  The priest informed us that Lord Krishna used to fetch water from Godavari and fill this well.  This well is opened only 4 days before Bheej.  As informed earlier, the devotees bring water in  small pots and fill the well until it gets filled up and starts overflowing.  There is a strong belief that on Sashti thithi, Lord HIMSELF pours water and immediately the well gets filled up.  In  the garbagriham, we can find the beautiful vigraham of Lord Vijaya Pandurangan bedecked with ornaments and flowers.  Beneath , we can find the photos of Eknath Maharaj with his gurudeva and Dattatareya.

As mentioned earlier, the Lord out of HIS own free will, appeared here .  We were told that the grinding stone used for making sandal paste was inside the garbagriham and as no one was around, we couldn’t have darshan of the same.  We were fortunate to touch the two pillars in front of the garbagriham  on which Eknath and Lord Krishna used to lean.  To distinguish , these two pillars are painted in red.  We circumbulated and touched the pillars and prayed for enhancement of bhakti and left the place.

From here, we proceeded to Naag ghat which is nearby.  This is on the banks of Godavari.  As the name suggests, a big snake painted on the wall draws our attention.  There is a small naagam where devotees assemble to please the snake-god.  We can find a stone-laid mantapam in an open space on the banks of Godavari which used to be the seat of the learned pundits in Prathistanapuram.  The pundits used to give their verdict in the assembly at this place.  This place is related to an important incident in Jnaneswar Maharaj’s life which is mentioned below.

Santh Jnaneswar Maharaj’s pastimes 

Vittal Pant who was not interested in leading a family life renounced his wife Rukmini and took sanyas from a guru in Varanasi without his wife’s knowledge. During one of his teertha yatras, the guru visits Aape gaon and blesses Vittal Pant’s wife,Rukmini with children.  Rukmini informs him that her husband had taken sanyas from the guru .  The guru orders Vittal Pant to return to the village and lead a householder’s life.  Being guru’s orders, Vittal Pant returns and in due course is blessed with 4 children who were the amsams of the Trinities.  Nivrutti was Shiva’s amsam, Sopan ws Brahma’s , Jnaneswar was Vishnu’s amsam and Muktabai was Durga’s amsam. 

The family was banished from the village because VittalPant had returned to family life after sanyasam.  When Vittal Pant and Rukmini along with their children approached Prathistanapuram for requesting the learned pundits to perform thread ceremony for their children , they refused to do so and as a prayachitham ordered them to end their lives in Ganges. 

Accordingly, Jnaneswar’s parents went to Triveni Sangamam and got themselves drowned because they were more interested in their children’s welfare.  The children once again approached the pundits and informed about their parents act and requested them to perform thread ceremony.  The learned pundits mocked at them about their interest to learn the sacred books. 

This was only a ritual.  The trinities, especially Jnaneswar who was an embodiment of knowledge didn’t require all the rituals but had approached the pundits to satisfy their parent’s desire.  When the pundits were thus insulting them, Jnaneswar said that anyone could recite the Vedas.  The pundits pointed out to a buffalo which was gazing nearby and asked whether it could recite.  Jnaneswar immediately ordered the buffalo to recite the Vedas and the buffalo did so.

The shocked pundits sought apology and realized Jnanadev’s greatness.  To recapitulate this incident, we find the buffalo temple here. This incident is painted on the wall.  Opposite to this, we find Ganesh mandir and further down towards Godavari, we find Siddeshwar sannidhi.

This buffalo followed Jnanadev till its end.  Infact, this buffalo used to nod its head in acceptance while Jnaneswar was expounding commentary on Bhagavad Gita.

We dropped the vendor back at Eknath Samadhi with some dakshina and proceeded on our journey.  It was already 6 p.m..   and hence we had to surrender to the mahaans  at Soolipanjan in our minds itself.

However as it was too late we had to surrender to the santh at Aape Gaon on the way to Nevasa.   Though the Kalleshwar temple in Nevasa  was  about 7 kms from the highway we had to pray from the bus stop itself . A local person informed that within 30 minutes, we could visit the temple and also informed that Shirdi was about 1 hour from this place and we could stay there and go to Pune the next day. 

This meant that we would be reaching Pune only by noon .  As we were running short of time, we decided to proceed to Pune even if it meant night journey by road with kids . The manager of Ahobila Mutt,Pune was glad to know that we are  Sri  Mudaliandan swamy’s sishyas and agreed  to accommodate us in the mutt and provide prasadam.

………….Reaching Nagar to take a bus to Pune 

We waited for about half an hour and to our dismay , no bus turned up. 

WE saw many non-stop buses from Aurangabad to Pune    and cursed ourselves for listening to the driver. We dispensed  the driver by paying  3200/- (including his tip) and were left stranded in the night on the highway. 

The person with whom I was conversing arranged for  a jeep for all 10 of us waiting for the bus to go to Nagar which is about 40 kms from Nevasa.  Ahmed Nagar popularly known as “Nagar” is an important route from where buses to various towns are available .  We reached Nagar at 9 p.m. and had to wait for solid one hour to board Pune bus.  Luckily we got AC bus to Pune.  The bus fare is 335/- per person .  It is about 3.5 hours drive from Nagar to Pune. 

We called up Ahobila Mutt Manager, Sri Rangachary that we would be reaching Pune at about 1 a.m.  The Manager was kind enough to remain awake and was giving directions to reach Ahobila Mutt .  He had kept 3 packets of Pongal, water,beds ready for us. Ahobila Mutt is popularly known as “Pashan Balaji Mandir” and has kalyana mantapam in the first floor with rooms for the bride and groom parties.  We were ushered into a room with all provisions.   We are greatly indebted to him for his services. Paid 300/- to the auto driver and retired for the night after partaking prasadam and thanked the manager profusely.  We later learnt that despite his ill health , he remained awake for our sake.  Our obeisances to the great devotee who gave us shelter.

After a long journey, we curdled in the divine lap of LAKSHMI NARASIMHAR and SRINIVASAR.

PROCEEDING TO DEHU TO ATTEND THE SANTH TUKARAM BHEEJ

On 7th morning, we participated in the Saatrumarai seva in Balaji mandir at 9 a.m.  After partaking the curd rice prasadam, we left for Dehu.  We engaged a car through Ola Cabs to visit Dehu and Alandi for which we paid Rs.1300/-.  The car picked us up at 10.10 a.m. and reached Dehu at 11 a.m.  Dehu is about 41 kms from Ahobila Mutt.  At the entrance, a beautiful arc mentioning Sant Tukaram’s birthplace with Tamburas on either side welcomes us.  This comes under Military area.  There was a heavy influx of pilgrims on that day as it was Tukaram’s Bheej (disappearance day).

We could drive for about one kilometer only and all the vehicles had to be parked there itself.  From the parking area, the Samadhi temple is about 3-4 kilometres.  WE were charged up seeing the devotion of the pilgrims singing bhajans holding Tulasi pots on their hand, some were playing tambura , kartaal etc.  This was an experience to be cherished.  It is the usual practice of the devotees to fast on that day and have prasadam only after taking Tukaram’s blessings.

The shopkeeper from whom we purchased water informed that the tree under which Tukaram left for Vaikuntam was about 3 kms and we had to walk.  My wife approached a driver for help stating that I had just recovered from a fracture and would not be able to walk the distance.

He immediately stopped a bus which was coming from the opposite direction and asked us to get in.  Along with us, other devotees joined and within no time, the bus was jam packed.  The bus was however parked at a distance of about  one kilometer.  The entire place was charged up in devotional fervor.

This reminded us of the festivities during Thiruvedupari utsavam in Thirunangoor where the otherwise sleepy village comes to life with lots of activities.  A typical Indian village fare  selling ice creams, snacks, tulasi beads ,fruits, juices were seen.

We could hear Tukaram’s abhangs being played everywhere through the sound systems.  There is another arc with the beautiful words “ JNAN,BHAKTI,VAIRAGYA TUKARAM”.  The crowd reminded us of Brahmotsava celebrations in Tirumala.  WE were amidst “jana samudram”. Atleast a lakh of devotees were present at that time on that day to witness a miracle which happens every year at noon. Our ears were drawn to the melodious kirtan by Srila Prabhupada singing the Maha mantram.  A big cut-out of Lord Pandurangan from a distance attracted everyone’s attention.

Few ISKCON volunteers from Pune centre were doing yomen service of book distribution.  We purchased a beautiful and informative book on Tukaram by Shri.Radhanath Maharaj at ISKCON shop. They were glad to note that we are life members and requested us to honour prasadam on the way back. We found nearly 5 groups of ISKCON volunteers following Srila Prabhupada’s instructions of book distribution.

On the way, we could have sparsham of Tukaram’s padhukas which were placed in a palanquin.   Unmindful of the scorching heat and clasping each other’s hands we proceeded to Tukaram’s Samadhi mandir. On the left side, we find Indrani river which was witness to the various incidents in Tukaram’s life flowing peacefully.  Many pilgrims were purifying themselves in the water.  This  river which flows past Alandi, brings Jnanadev’s blessings too along with her to this place.  Pilgrims who have a holy dip are benefitted with Jnanadev and Tukaram Maharaj’s grace.

Sant Tukaram like Nammazhwar was the only person who left for Vaikuntam with this mortal body.  Lord sent Garuda vahanam and singing the praises of the Lord , while everyone was watching, Sant Tukaram embarked on the Garuda vahanam and ascended to Srivaikuntam.  He promised his followers that on every disappearance day which falls on the second day after Holi ,popularly known as Bheej, he would come from Vaikuntam exactly at noon in the form of a gentle breeze to this place and bless the devotees.  Because of the gentle breeze, the leaves of the tree which was a witness to the incident gently move and the leaves fall.

To enable the assembled devotees who stand far away from the tree, the temple authorities have tied a red flag as an indication.  When the breeze gently blows, the red flag moves which can be witnessed by everyone. 

The assembled devotees continuously sing the abhangs and as noon approaches, the fervor and intensity of the bhajans increases.  Words cannot describe the sight. One has to personally witness this incident.  Because of the heavy rush, we could not go very near the temple and had to miss Bandaara hills which is about 8 kms from this place.  The heat was unbearable and as were running short of time, we prayed for Punar darsanam at this place.  WE were content of having the most desirable darshan on the auspicious day.

The ISKCON volunteers whom we met earlier ushered us to a building under construction and served pooris,curry, rice,dal ,kesari as prasadam.  We learnt that there is an ISKCON centre at this place.  So, we were confident that during our next visit to Dehu which should happen with Sant Tukaram’s grace, we can stay in ISKCON and relish Sant Tukaram’s pastimes. We paid Rs.10/- per head for the bus to drop us at the parking lot .

From Dehu, we proceeded to Alandi.  Actually the distance from Dehu to Alandi via “Alandi-Dehu road” is about 25 kms but we learnt that  due to heavy crowd, the road was closed.  So, we had to go via Pune.  These two places are in perpendicular directions.

Alandi, the most frequented place by devotees is the place where Jnaneswar Maharaj, popularly known as “Jnanadev”/”Mouli” took jiva Samadhi. Sri Jnaneswar Maharaj took Samadhi at the age of 21 under the rare tree known as “Ajaana vruskh” which cannot be found anywhere.  Being weekend , there was heavy rush of pilgrims.  The simple,  bhakti fervor of the Maharashtrians can be seen at these religious places.  The Samadhi mandir is on the banks of Indrani river.  On either sides, we can find shops selling all types of puja items, refreshments .  It was 3 p.m. when we reached this place .Devotees were waiting in the serpentine queues seeing which I guessed would take easily one hour to have darshan.  In the temples which we visited,  I found that there is no “paid ticket queues”- no seegra darshan.

Everyone has to go in a single queue.  Devotees standing in the queue were sining bhajans which I guess must be the abhangs written by Jnaneswar maharaj.  Unmindful of the hot breeze and the rush, devotees were immersed in the prayers.  My wife approached a security person and requested him to help us out as adiyen couldn’t stand for long.  The security ushered us directly into the Samadhi through the exit door. Within minutes, we could have darshanam of the Samadhi. 

A black stone is laid at the place where Jnaneswar took Samadhi, Devotees were offering flowers and sweets to the Samadhi.  Everyone is allowed to have sparsham of the Samadhi(touch the Samadhi). Even today  ,Jnaneswar Maharaj responds to the devotees’ prayers from the Samadhi and many incidents prove this.  Behind the Samadhi, Lord Pandurangan along with Rakumaayi(Rukmini) gives darshan with HIS ever benevolent smile and grace.( It was as if Lord was mocking at me for approaching touts (as is our usual practice in Tirumala) for darshan!!!)

On the outer wall of the Samadhi temple, a big photograph of Sant Jnaneswar with Vittal gracing him from behind draws our attention.  Opposite to this  is Muktabai’s sannidhi.  When we come in circumbulation, we can have darsanam of the banyan tree.  Rukmini-Jnaneswar’s mother used to circumbulate this tree 1008 times daily as she considered that to be her “daily Pandharpur yatra”. Beside this , we find Ajaanavruksh tree which is worshipped by all the devotees.  We came across devotees sitting and reading Bhaavartha Deepika near the tree.

It was under this tree that Jnaneswar took jiva Samadhi.  Later a temple was constructed at this place but we find the tree spreading its branches over the Samadhi even now.  Descending two steps from the tree, we enter into a mandapam which has been constructed for the devotees to recite Bhavaartha Deepika.  In this mantapam, we can find the images of Lord Vittalan with Rakumaayi and the silver palanquin which is used to carry Jnaneswar’s padhukas to Pandharpur from Alandi.

Jnaneswar was the founder of Varkaari sampradayam- they emphasise more on bhajans and abhangs.  Aashada Ekadasi is the most important festival in Pandharpur because this is the appearance day of LORD KRISHNA as PANDURANGAN to Pundalikan.  Every Ekadasi is important but Aashada and Karthika Ekadasis are the most important festivals for varkaaris and in Pandirpur.  Aashada Ekadasi is also known as ‘Sayana Ekadasi” when Lord Jagannath goes to sleep for four months at the onset of Chaathur maas.  It is also known as “tholi Ekadasi”  for Telugus because it marks the beginning of festivals after a gap of about 3-4 months.  In Tamilnadu, in almost all the temples, during this period, Jyestabhishekam is performed to the deities. So, this month  is important for all the Hindus.

Back to Aashada Ekadasi celebrations, thousands of devotees gather at Alandi and Dehu.  In Alandi, the assembled devotees place the padhukas of Jnaneswar in the palanquin (“paalki’) and continuously do bhajan until they get consent from Jnaneswar for the yaatra to begin. The bell on the Samadhi of Jnaneswar rings, leaves fall from Ajaana vruksham and there is a drizzle.  Only when all these three things happen, it is treated as  Sant Jnaneswar’s  consent  and the procession starts.  The procession takes about 15-20 days  to reach Pandharpur. All through the paada-yaatra, devotees keep singing abhangs, they carry tulasi pots , and partake prasadam with everyone.

We reached Swaargate bus stop in Pune at about 5 p.m. intending to take Satara bus. Initailly, we planned to go to Satara ,stay in the ISKCON centre (we never knew that ISKCON has a centre there but the devotees in Dehu provided us with the number and asked us to contact them (08806619098) for prashadam and accommodation.  We planned to stay there for the night and go to Sajjan gad which is about 18 kms south of Satara and visit Samartha Ramdas Samadhi mandir on the hill.  

  There was communication gap with the ISKCON person and hence we could not get confirmation about the stay. Maybe it was Lord’s will to fulfill our desire of having Mahalakshmi darsanam at Kolhapur . We found a bus which was ready to leave for Kolhapur . Purchased tickets and reached Kolhapur at 10 p.m.  The Kolhapur Mahalakshmi temple is about 8 kms away from the bus stop.  We hired an auto for Rs.70/- who dropped us in Venkateswara Lodge for Rs.1000/- room rent.  We had spoken to one of the priests of Kolhapur temple who advised us to be at the temple entrance by 7.30 a.m. to  participate in Abhishekam for Thayar.

HOW THE DIVYA DAMPATHIS  MAHAVISHNU AND MAHALAKSHMI DESCENDED ON EARTH FOR GRACING US IN KALIYUGA..

It may be recollected that Bhrigu rishi was assigned the task of finding out the most tolerant and compassionate God among the Trinities who could be worshipped by the fallen souls like us in Kali Yuga.  When Bhrigu rishi reached Satyalokam, Brahma was lost in meditation while Saraswathi was playing the veena.  As Brahma didn’t welcome the rishi, he got angry and left the place cursing that Brahma would not be worshipped on earth.(an exception to this are the temples at Pushkar and Bittoor).Bhrigu rishi proceeded to Mount Kailash where he found Shiva and Parvathi performing thandaavam (a dance type) and didn’t greet him.  The offended rishi cursed Shiva that he would not be worshipped in his original form and people would only worship him as “linga”.  Bhrigu rishi was totally infuriated at the behavior of Brahma and Shiva  and angrily proceeded to Vaikuntam.  He presumed that Vishnu who was lying on the cosmic ocean would also extend the same treatment .  Without following any decorum, he straight away went to the Paarkadal and seeing Perumal in yoga nidra and Thayar pressing the Lord’s holy feet, he committed an unpardonable offence by kicking Perumal on HIS holy chest which is the vaasasthalam (residing place) of Jaganmatha, Sri Mahalakshmi. 

Perumal who was pretending to be asleep immediately got up seeking forgiveness from the rishi.  Perumal seated the rishi on a throne and started pressing the rishi’s legs for the pain that would have arisen due to the offence.  The moment Perumal’s sparsham was felt by the rishi, he calmed down and realized his mistake.  While Perumal was pressing the rishi’s legs, he gradually pressed the third eye under the rishi’s feet which was the cause of anger in the rishi.  Rishis who have mastered their senses ought to be calm and forgiving whereas this rishi despite doing tapas for hundreds of years failed to master his senses. 

All the evil got accumulated in his third eye which was the cause for his temperament.  The rishi realized his mistake and begged for forgiveness.  He praised Perumal that HE is the most compassionate God to be worshipped and left the place.  Mahalakshmi Thayar who always resides in Perumal’s chest  who is never inseperable from Perumal (as Nammazhwar says “Agalagillene Iraiyum endru alarmel mangai urai maarbha) was offended by this act of Perumal.  She couldn’t accept Lords’s compassion on a sinner who desecrated her place.  The Vedas identify Perumal as the “one who has Sridevi on HIS chest”. Lord is known as “SRI-NIVASAN” meaning the abode of Sri (Lakshmi).

Pey Azhwar endorses this  in Moondram Thiruvandhadhi as “THIRU KANDENE, PON MENI KANDENE…..” meaning that he first saw “Thiru”(Lakshmi) and because of HER luster, he could see the golden luster on Perumal’s body.. . Our poorvacharyars vouch for Thayar and clearly emphasise HER importance as SHE alone acts as Purushakaaram(bridge between Jivatma and Paramatma) and prevail upon the Lord’s will to grant moksham (freedom from rebirth) on our behalf. 

That is why ,Swamy Ramanujar chose the holy day of Panguni Uthiram and sought refuge at Ranganayaki Thayar’s holy feet to intervene on our behalf and grant moksham.  Our poorvacharyars say that one can count the innumerable qualities of Perumal whereas it is just not possible to count Thayar’s qualities. 

Swami Desikan prays to Thayar to intervene on our behalf and ensure that Perumal does not punish for our various uncountable sins. 

Annamacharyar first sang 100 songs on Thayar and only later he started singing for Perumal.  Thyagarajar says “Nannu Bhrova mani cheppave, Sitamma thalli….), Ramdas in his outpourings sings “Yey theeruguna dhaya …..” .

On a day prior to Vaikunta Ekadasi  in Srirangam, when Namperumal dressed as Mohini by wearing Thayar’s costumes appeared in front of  Parasara Bhattar asking him to comment, Sri Parasara Bhattar commented that even though Perumal dressed up like nachiyar, HIS eyes which always wander to punish the sinner cannot be compared with Thayar’s benovolent compassion.  Thayar’s kataksham is always cool and forgiving whereas Perumal always tries to punish us when we deviate from dharma.  Such is the vaibhavam of Mahalakshmi Thayar whom Bhrigu rishi insulted.  Thayar who could not bear this humiliation and left Vaikuntam and landed in this bhooloka at Karaveerapuram for doing penance. 

The moment Thayar left Vaikuntam, Vaikuntam lost all its splendour  and Mahavishnu also set out for Bhooloka in search of Thayar. The Lord ascended at Tirumala Hills and later on married Padmavathi who was an amsam ofBhoo devi and who played a vital role in Ramayanam as mentioned in “Sri Venkateswara Mahatyam”.  Mahalakshmi Thayar who was doing penance was informed by Narada rishi about these developments and SHE came to Tirumala and participated in the wedding.  Thayar once again occupied HER original place in Perumal’s chest and resides forever.

A beautiful temple is constructed at the place where Thayar did penance.  Mahalakshmi Thayar is in standing posture, Mahavishnu and Mahalakshmi have blessed this place by staying here forever.  In this temple, everyday Thirumanjanam is performed to Thayar’s sataari (holy feet) in HER presence.

On 8th morning, adiyongal met the temple priest at South gate.  There are four entrances to the temple.  Kolhapur previously known as “Karaveera puram” is the place where Goddess Mahalakshmi first placed HER holy feet on earth.

      ABHISHEKAM BEING PERFORMED FOR MAHALAKSHMI AT KOLHAPUR

In this temple, all the activities are followed systematically.  Only gents are allowed to sit for the Thirumanjana seva and the ladies can stand behind and watch the seva.  Seva cost is Rs.350/- per person .

This seva is performed in the mornings from 5 a.m. at hourly slots.   For this purpose, there are two sataris.  One of the priests ask us to do sankalpam and after this is over, the devotees are involved in all the sevas.  A priest hands over a bowl of holy milk mixed with water,cur,turmeric,honey to be poured on one sataari and this is done by all the assembled gents devotees. 

During Thirumanjanam, Sri Sooktam was being chanted. Dhoopam, deepam, flowers, neivedyam are separately passed on to all the devotees who individually offer it  to the satari from their place .  Later, another pujari while reciting Lakshmi archana, gives us some kumkum to be offered to the second sataari.  After this, the devotees are sent for darshanam from close quarters.  While we were performing Thirumanjanam, we observed that a priest was patiently adorning the main diety ,Moolavar with all the sarees offered by devotees.  At a time, Thayar is draped in 10 sets of sarees in everyone’s presence. 

Later after giving haarthi and sweet offerings, these were removed. It is usual practice for the devotees who visit this temple to offer bangles, sarees, blouse pieces, kumkum etc. to the Thayar.  All the shops near the entrances sell these items.   Moolavar’s thirumanjanam also was performed in everyone’s presence.  The priest anointed some oil on Thayar’s thirumugam(face) and all over the body.  Later abhishekam was performed using water and milk.  This process is not that elaborate as we find in Southern temples.  Thayar was once again dressed in new sarees.  Dakshina of Rs.350/- towards Thirumanjanam charges are to be given to the head priest .  These amounts are later distributed amongst all the pandas/pujaris.  We were lucky to be in Thayar’s presence for nearly an hour .Our hearts were filled with HER benevolent grace.  Karaveerapuram is also connected with Sakku Bai, one of the great devotees of Pandurangan.  Sakkubai hailed from a nearby village in Pandirpur but was living with her inlaws at Karaveerapuram, the present Kolhapur.  To enable Sakkubai to have HIS darshan on Aashada Ekadasi, Lord assumed her form and lived in Karaveerapuram serving her inlaws and husband doing all menial jobs.  So, we wanted to visit this place.  But unfortunately, no one was able to guide us.  So, we had to satisfy ourselves by thinking of the Lord’s pastimes and her bhakti.

We left the temple at about 9.30 a.m. and checked out of the lodge at about 10.30 a.m.  Boarded Pandharpur bus from Kolhapur bus stand at 11 a.m. and reached Pandharpur around 4 p.m.  Took an auto for Rs.100/- to go to ISKCON, Pandharpur .  Being life members, we had made advance reservation of our accommodation and the manager, Sri Praveen Prabhu was kind enough to keep some prashadam for us.  After refreshing ourselves, we first had Sri Radha Pandirnath darshan in ISKCON and after honouring prasadam, went to Chandrabhaga river and sprinkled the holy water on us.  Construction of ghat as desired by Srila Prabhupada has commenced at this place with the support of volunteers.

We participated in the evening aarthi in ISKCON  at 7 p.m. Shri Praveen prabhu had arranged for an auto for us to go to the temple.

ONLINE DARSHAN FACILITY FOR PILGRIMS VISITING PANDHARPUR

To have a hassle-free darshan in  Pandharpur avoiding long queues, the temple authorities have started “online booking” scheme. We need to log on to http://www.vitthalrukminimandir.org/onlineDarshan.html and choose the date and time slot.  Book the darshan ticket online by uploading your photo and filling up the application.

We booked our darshan for 7p.m. to 8p.m. slot and so left for the temple at 7.30p.m. after the kirtan.  The temple is about 10 minutes drive from ISKCON.  The darshan is free of cost.

The security at the entrance ushered us to go to a nearby office near Tukaram dwaar to get our tickets stamped.  Once this is over, we can straight away enter the temple for darshan. We first had darshan of Chokamela’s Samadhi near the entrance.  Offering obeisances to Namdev at Namdev Pairi, we entered the temple singing songs on Panduranga including few abhangs.   Lord Panduranga was very kind to us.  He gave darshan from the closest quarters and allowed us to have HIS PAADHA SPARSHAM (touching the holy feet) which is done only in Pandirpur. The Supreme Personality was dressed in white dhoti with big green borders (typical South Indian dhoti) .We felt that the Lord was pleased with us because we had darshan of his devotees and then approached HIM.  The blessings of HIS dear devotees shielded our shortcomings enabling the Lord to pour HIS BENOVOLENT GRACE ON US.  The Lord also gave us a bonus by allowing us to watch HIS THIRUMANJANA SEVA  ( ABHISHEKAM ) on the next day.

An ISKCON devotee who was introduced to us by Praveen prabhu advised us to be at the Mahadwaar by 2 a.m.  Only 30-40 devotees are allowed inside to have darshan of the Thirumanjana seva.  But as advised by the auto driver, we ensured to be present at mahadwaar by 1 a.m. The auto driver arrived at ISKCON during the wee hours and dropped us at Vittal temple.  Handing over the mobile to him and requesting him to come at 6 a.m. for picking us up, adiyen accompanied by my wife,  joined the queue outside the mahadwaar.  Luckily, only two devotees were present.  Chanting on our beads , we waited till 4 a.m. for the gates to open.

The security organized everything nicely.  The ladies were first allowed to get inside the temple first and were made to sit in front of the garbagriham in the big hall which is about 12-15 feet away from the main deity.  The gents were allowed later and had to stand/sit behind the ladies.  We recollected our past two  sevas few years back when the pandas used to take us from some other entrance other than the maha dwaar , make the gents sit and the ladies used to stand behind.  The pandas also used to charge exhorbitantly ranging from Rs.2000-5000 based on the number of persons.  But after the Endowment department has taken charge, things have been simplified for the benefit of devotees.  There is no charge for any seva.  Hope all the Endowment managed temples in our country follow this system.

ABHISHEKAM TO LORD PANDURANGAN IN PANDHARPUR

After about half an hour, the rituals started.  The pujari first removed the tulasi leaves which were placed on the Lord’s holy feet the previous night  and distributed it amongst the assembled devotees.  There were about 6 priests engaged in the service of bringing holy water, milk, sugar, flowers , chandan paste etc.  A male devotee in his late fifties helped in cleaning the inner halls while a lady who seemed to be an advanced devotee was cleaning the thresholds with water and decorating with kolams.  All through her activities, she was happily singing aloud songs on Vittal .

The songs by the pure devotee was nectarian.  As we were not familiar with the language, we could only guess from few Hindi words that she was singing appropriate songs for the sevas.  While the Lord was awakened, she sang  a nice song.  While offering milk , we guessed she was singing in Yashoda bhaavam, during Thirumanjanam and haarthi, she was outpouring the divine nectarian songs.  She reminded us of the great devotee, Jaana bai who used to sing beautiful abhangs on Lord Vittalan while discharging her duties.  The Lord was so pleased with her abhangs that he used to remember and relish her sweet outpourings.

The milk which was offered to the Lord was distributed amongst all of us.  The diety was now ready for Thirumanjanam.  The pujaris kept two pots in front of the Lord containing milk and water and did sankalpam.  Inside the garbagriham, the priests were chanting Purusha suktam while this lady along with the elderly person was singing abhangs.  Lord was given holy bath with water, milk, chandan, sugar .  Sugar was applied on the Lord’s pavazhavaai(mouth) and on HIS holy feet. The Lord’s divya mangala swaroopam can be clearly seen during Thirumanjanam.  The Lord has a lingam on HIS head (Mastaka lingam), the Lord  places HIS palms  on HIS hips. The Lord is seen holding sankhu in HIS left palm and HIS right hand rests on the hip.  Lord’s dress and the sweat on HIS divine face can be seen clearly.  The brick on which the Lord places HIS holy feet can also be seen.  Indra, the king of devas, to atone for the sin of killing Viratasuran, a Brahmin was afflicted with bhrama hathi dosham.  To atone for this sin, Indra assumed the form of a brick and requested Srihari to purify him by placing HIS divine feet.   Haarthi was given to the Lord while the lady was clapping. First, the golden crown was placed on the Lord’s Head.  The Lord was clad in white silk clothes and with a white velvet cloth as the upper garment.  The lady was singing a song referring to the various days and the colour of dresses adorned by Vittalan.  The Lord was bedecked with a floral garland and a Tulasi garland.  Chandanam was applied on the Lord’s forehead in an “inverted leaf” form and a black Tilak was applied in the centre. 

The Lord’s beauty was very captivating..No wonder, so many devotees attained HIM. The moment abhishekam got over, the lady left the place to do some other service.  How fortunate she is to do kainkaryam right in front of Perumal, sit in front of HIM and sing for HIM.  WE were mesmerized by her unflinched devotion  to Vittalan.  After archana, the Lord was offered bhog.  Later we were all ushered in to have close darshan.  The ladies were allowed first and the gents followed suit.  Adiyen with my wife who was waiting in the queue had darshan of Vittalan in close quarters and fell at HIS holy feet.  May the Lord bless us with PREMA BHAKTI.  After having darsanam of Rakumaayi, Subhadra, Radharani, Balaji and after circumbulating the holy tree we cherished our memories sitting in the temple.

KAANGOPATRA CHARITAM- THE GREAT DEVOTEE WHO BECAME ONE WITH THE LORD

Kaangopaatra who lived in Mangalvedha  was a very pious,devoted,beautiful lady who was always lost in Vittalan’s thoughts.  The king ordered her to be brought to his presence forcibly.  On the way, she requested the soldiers to allow her to have darsanam of Pandurangan for the last time who obliged to her request. 

She ran inside the temple and crying piteously falling at the feet of Pandurangan, she gave up her life.  The priests hid her body behind the temple and immediately a big tree grew in that place.  This is the holy tree inside the temple which is worshipped by the devotees. When the king who didn’t believe the preists’ version personally came, he was shocked to see the upper cloth worn by Kaangopatra now decorating the Lord.  WE later learnt from the car driver that Narasing Mehta’s Samadhi mandir is in Mangalvedha.

WE returned to ISKCON and after taking rest for some time, honoured prasadam and went to visit other important places by auto in Pandirpur.  We first went to Pundalikan Samadhi located on the banks of Chandrabhaga.  This temple is visible from ISKCON.

“PUNDALIKA VARADHEY       HARI VITTALA “ is the most often heard word amongst Vittalan devotees and in Pandirpuram. Pleased with the services of Pundalikan to his parents, the Supreme Lord appeared in this tiny village to bless him and gives darshan to everyone till date.  Another speciality is the Lord’s sowlabhyam to his devotees.  Everyone irrespective of caste,creed,gender is allowed to touch the Holy feet of the Lord.  In Pandirpuram, we can have the darshan of the MOST COMPASSIONATE LORD who  mingled with all the devotees and assumed various forms like a cobbler, barber, servant, potter, and always assisted his devotees right from helping them in household chores and encouraged them to do bhajan.  Lord Pandurangan is pleased with bhajans only.

“CHANDRABHAAGE SNANA THEERTHA   PUNDALIKA KSHETRA PAALA…” is the famous abhang which not only Maharashtrians but also South Indians know….

PUNDALIKAN

THE DEVOTEE FOR WHOM  LORD VITTAL’S APPEARED  IN PANDHARPUR

Pilgrimage to Pandharpur and Vittal darshan is incomplete without mentioning Pundalikan.  PUndalaikan who hailed from south India along with his parents, wife and children undertook a yatra to Kasi.  As his parents couldn’t withstand the long journey, they stayed on the banks of Bhima river in the present Pandharpur. Pundalikan changed the course of river so that it would pass by his hut to enable his parents for bathing. The shape was in the shape of crescent and hence the river came to be known as “Chandrabhaga” river.

Lord Krishna who was then ruling Dwaraka,learnt from  Narada about Pundalikan  who was serving his  parents and personally visited his hut to bless him. Pundalikan could not immediately get up and receive the Lord because his parents were resting on his lap.   When Lord Krishna called him,  Pundalikan replied that he couldn’t come and receive the Lord of the Universe and requested the Lord to wait for him till he finished. He requested the Lord to  stand on a brick which was laying nearby. Indra to atone for his brahmahathi dosham took the form of brick and was eagerly awaiting Lord’s arrival so that the Lord would place HIS holy feet.

As the Lord was waiting for long time outside his house, HE slowly put HIS hands on the waist and was observing Pundalikan’s activities.  Pundalikan was happy to see the Lord and prayed to HIM to stay there forever. Rukmini ,SAtyabhama who came in search of the Lord were happy to see the form of the Lord , assumed the same posture and blessed Pundalikan. AT the behest of Pundalikan, Lord resides here and gives darshan. As Lord stands on Vittu(brick) , HE is known as Vittalan.

The place where the Lord   stands is the present temple.   Pundalikan and his parents attained Lord’s feet and their samadhis were constructed on the banks of Chandrabhaga river.    There are two samadhis- one is of Pundalikan where a copper image of Pundalikan’s face is worshipped on the Samadhi.  Behind is his parents’ Samadhi.  The beautiful painting of Lord Vittalan carrying Namdev and Jnaneswar on HIS shoulders and other devotees clinging to the Lord attracts everyone’s attention.  Few photographers have kept small vigrahams of Vittal-Rakumayi and the devotees take photo along with them.

The main entrance to the temple is known as “Namdev pairi”. This is the place where the great bhakta Namdev, who could converse and play with the Lord attained Samadhi.  A vigraham of Namdev’s face is placed at this place.  Along with Namdev, 14 of his family members attained Samadhi at this place whose names are mentioned on the nearby wall.

CHOKAMELA-

THE DEVOTEE WITH WHOM LORD WOULD CONVERSE DAILY AND  HAD PRASADAM ON A DWADASI DAY- 

Near the entrance to the temple, we can find Chokamela’s Samadhi facing the temple.  Chokamela was an outcaste whom Lord loved and would personally go to his house after the temple doors closed after sayana aarthi.  Chokamela like Chaitanya Mahaprabhu always used to be in ecstasy singing, dancing, clapping hands, crying, and was always immersed in Lord’s thoughts.  As the Lord was invisible to others, seeing Chokamela’s acts, the people branded him “mad”. The Lord would happily converse with Chokamela. (This reminds us of the great bhakta, Haathiraam Bhabha in Tirumala with whom Lord Srinivasa used to play dice every night after Ekantha seva and return to temple during Suprabhatam). Once Chokamela desired to see Lord’s house .  The Lord took him inside the garbagriham with his maya after the temple was closed.  They spent the whole night conversing with each other and when the temple doors were opened the next morning, the pujaries were shocked to see Chokamela inside the garbagriham.  The priests informed that the mad person had now entered the temple premises to the king who ordered him to leave the place and never to enter the temple again.  Chokamela was not at all disturbed with this order and moved along with his wife to the other bank of Chandrabhaga .  The Lord continued to visit him daily. Fasting on Ekadasi is followed by all the Vaishnavas as per shastras . 

On Dwadasi, the vaishnava has to feed someone and then break the fast.  In Pandirpur, Ekadasi vrutham is observed by everyone and they follow this practice of feeding someone on Dwadasi.  On one occasion, Chokamela desired to feed Krishna on Dwadasi day .  The Lord immediately accepted his request and visited his house on the following day along with Rukmini , Namdev and Indran.  Chokamela’s wife was serving the guests with the prasadam when accidentally curd pot fell down spilling over Lord’s peethambaram.  Chokamela chastised his wife for this behavior while the Lord simply smiled.  The Lord wanted to show the world Chokamela’s bhakti.  At the same time, mid-day neivedyam was being offered to the deity in the temple when the priests were shocked to see curd on Lord’s peethambaram.  Few people who happened to converse with Chokamela learnt from him that Lord HIMSELF had come for partaking lunch in his house and about the curd incident.  They informed the priests about the incident who immediately approached Chokamela’s house and begged for forgiveness. This incident in the form of photograph is hung in Chokamela’s  Samadhi.  Chokamela was always immersed in devotion to such an extent that when he left his mortal body, Lord ordered Namdev to perform the last rites.  When the remnants of the burnt body along with the bones were brought by Chokamela’s relatives, they observed that the burnt bones danced hearing Hari Naama sankeertana.  Lord instructed the ashes and the bones to be kept in a Samadhi facing HIM so that Chokamela’s remnants could always have Vittal’s darsanam.

NARAHARI SONA- LORD GAVE DARSHAN AS VISHNU AND SHIVA

On the left side towards Namdev Dwaar, the main entrance to the temple, we find Narahari Sona’s Samadhi and opposite is the Mallikarjuneswar’s sannidhi.  Narahari Sona ,a goldsmith by profession was  a staunch Siva devotee differentiated the forms of Vishnu and Shiva.  He was against worshipping/ thinking/ hearing about the presiding diety.  Lord, who is Jagan naataka Sootradhaari, has HIS own way of bringing everyone to HIS holy feet.  Lord wanted to remove his illusion and enacted a divine leela.

A rich person in the neighbouring village who was childless prayed to Pandurangan for progeny promising the Lord that he would offer a golden kavacham for Lord Vittalan.  In due  course, the rich man’s wish was fulfilled and he wanted to fulfill his wish.  Everyone referred to Narahari Sona, the goldsmith living in Pandirpur as he was an expert.  Due to the divine intervention, Narahari Sona accepted the order but after learning that it was for the Lord whom he hated , he was hesitant.  Lord prevailed upon the rich person luring him  that with the huge fee which he would get, he could renovate the Mallikarjuneswara Swamy temple .  Sona felt that his long cherished desire of renovating his God’s templke could be fulfilled and ceepted. He finally relented to the rich person with a condition that someone has to get the Lord’s measurements as he would not enter the temple.  The rich person agreed to this and the measurements were given to Sona who made a wonderful kavacham for the Lord.  The rich man on an auspicious day offered it to Lord but when the priests adorned, it did not fit correctly and was big for the diety.  The richman asked Sona to make the necessary changes and tthis time the kavacham didn’t fit the diety.  The rich man started abusing Sona who was now forced to personally take the measurements.  As he had taken a vow not to place his feet inside the temple and also see the Lord, the richman ordered 2 persons to carry Narahari Sona inside the temple with blindfolded eyes.  When Narahari Sona started measuring the dhivya mangala thirumeni of the archa murthi, he suddenly felt naagam on the neck, tiger skin on the body, rudraksham on the neck.  As these things are adorned by Shiva, he felt that the vigrham was that of Shiva and opened his eyes.  Immediately, the Lord gave darshan as Pandurangan. Looking at Pandurangan, he immediately closed his eyes and once again attempted to take the measurements.  This leela was repeated.  With closed eyes, he could visualize Shiva and with eyes open, he had Pandurangan darshan.  Thus his ignorance was removed by the all-compassionate Lord and he became a great devotee of the Lord.

JAANABAI- LORD HELPED HER IN HOUSEHOLD CHORES

We then drove to Gopalpuri which is about 6 kms from Pandirpur.  The house turned temple is situated on a small hillock.  The inmates sitting in the various sannidhis force us for money.  So, we need to be careful.  Here the vessels used by Janabai in Namdev’s house which had Lord Vittalan’s karana sparasham(touched by Lord’s hands) , the stone grinder etc can be seen.  Janabai who had come to Pandirpur with her parents lost them in the crowd when she was a small child.  Seeing the crying child, Namdev gave shelter to her.  Namdev was an embodiment of bhakti who could see and converse with Vittalan.  Vittalan used to visit him daily.  In that conducive environment, Janabai’s bhakti developed.  She always used to sing the Lord’s beauty while doing work.  Lord used to help her in cooking and used to grind flour for her in the stone mortar while she would be lost singing HIS divine beauty.

This incident in the form of a picture is hung on the wall.  Janabai’s bhakti was like that of Andal and Mirabai.  Lord always used to relish and recap her abhangs .

In the same premises, a few steep steps inside a cave leads us to a small place where the idols of Vittalan and Sakkubai are kept. Sakkubai with folded hands and Vittalan give darshan.  Rs.5/- per head is charged for entry into this.

SAKKUBAI- LORD ASSUMED HER FORM AND SERVED IN HER HOUSE FOR MANY MONTHS

While Sakkubai was still a child, a senior devotee who was going to Pandirpur handed over a tambura to her and gave her mantra which she used to always contemplate upon.  She always desired to go to Pandirpuram to have Vittalan’s darshan.  In due course, she was married to a person  and started to live in Karaveerapuram, the present Kolhapur serving her inlaws and husband.  She was always lost in thought of Pandurangan and was not at all interested in material life.  Unmindful of the inflictions by her atheist inlaws, she used to discharge all her household duties while thinking of Pandurangan always.  Once when she went to the river to fetch water, she saw a bhajan group proceeding to Pandirpur.  The group was led by the devotee who had earlier given Tambura to her. Lost in the thoughts of Pandurangan, she joined the group and reached Pandirpur.

Meanwhile, Pandurangan assumed her form and did all the chores at Karaveerapuram.  Noone  could guess that it was the Lord in the form of Sakkubai who was with them and served for many months. She was in ecstasy looking at the divine form of the Lord and gave up her body.  Rukmini devi, the divine consort of the Lord was perplexed at this incident.  She ordered Sakkubai’s body to be brought to her and the Jagan Maatha , the Universal Mother gave life to Sakkubai.  Rukmini Devi revealed about the Lord’s act to Sakkubai and advised her to return to her village so that the Lord could come back to Pandirpur and give darsanam.  Sakkubai obeyed Mother Rukmini’s orders.  The original Sakkubai met the Lord on the banks of the same river where she left earlier and sought forgiveness for the trouble.  Lord gave her darshan in HIS Resplendant form and blessing her left the place.  In our trip, we went to Kolhapur to visit this place.  No one whom we enquired could guide us  and so had to remember her in Mahalakshmi Thayar’s presence.

While returning to Pandirpur, we first visited Gora Kumbar Samadhi mandir in a small lane.  In the big hall in front of the Samadhi, we can find beautiful pictures of Vittalan and HIS various leelas.

GORA KUMBAR- THE POTTER TO WHOM LORD WORKED AS AN ASSISTANT

In front of the Samadhi, on the left side, we find a beautiful picture of Gorakumbar singing in ecstasy while stamping the clay and his child clinging to his feet.  Opposite to him, we find Gorakumbar’s wife.  Inside the altar , we find the Samadhi of Gorakumbar with a copper head being worshipped and images of Pandurangan,Rakumayi.

Gora Kumbar , a potter by profession lived in Teri village in  Osmanabad district along with his wife Tulasi  and child-Hari.   He used to be so immersed in bhakti that he would not know what was happening around .  Once it so happened  that his wife went outside to fetch some ghee for the infant and left the child in Gorakumbar’s custody.  While stamping the clay for uniform consistency to make pots, dark clouds formed in the sky seeing which Gora Kumbar was lost in Krishna’s beauty and was singing in ecstasy.  The lighting and the downpour startled the little child who crawled and clasped Gora kumbar’s feet.  While mixing the clay with his feet, Gora Kumbar was completely lost in Lord’s thoughts with his hands raised above his head and was visualizing Vittal everywhere.  Unknowingly, the child got caught in between his legs and in due course was crushed to death.  Gorakumbar’s wife who returned after the rain subsided was searching for the child and to her dismay saw the remains of the child  mixed in the clay.  She shouted at Gorakumbar and brought him to senses. Angered by the thought that because of Lord Pandurangan, her husband was lost in devotion, she proceeded to hit Vittalan.  Gorakumbar attacked his wife to stop her from doing apachaaram and was about to hit her.  To save herself, she proclaimed promise on Vittalan that he should not touch her.  Gorakumbar refrained from this act and tried to pacify her .

As the child’s memories haunted her, Tulasi literally became mad.  Gora sent her to her father’s place for a change.  Gora was continuing his sadhana.  Tulasi repented for her act and wanted to have a child’s presence in their house so that the old memories would slowly fade away.  She prevailed upon her father to give her sister in marriage to Gora.  As Gora was basically a nice person, her father too agreed and the wedding was solemnized in Vittalan’s presence .He requested Gora to take care of the new bride like his first wife. Gora treated the second wife also like Tulasi and abstained from maintaining any contact with them.  Gora never used to touch the food prepared by his wives and did everything immediately.  Once when his wives forcibly served him, he repented that the promise on Pandurangan had broken and immediately chopped off both his hands.  Now, the sole bread earner of the family was handicapped and thus could not continue his profession.  The ever compassionate Lord Vittalan who could not bear his devotee suffering, reached Gora Kumbar’s house and as a small boy served him.  The Lord used to make pottery and sell , he would do all sorts of services to Gora Kumbar right from bathing him, washing his clothes, helping him in worship, cooking and serving all three of them

A devotee who came to have darsanam in Pandirpur observed that there was no saanidhyam (presence of the Lord) in the temple.  Only the idol was there.  He contemplated on Lord to reveal HIS presence and learnt that the Lord was in Gora Kumbar’s house serving him.  He immediately rushed to Gora’s house for having darsanam of the Lord.  Through him, Gora learnt that the boy  who was serving him was none other than the “BHAKTA VATSALAN  PANDURANGAN”.  The boy had disappeared from the house.  Gora went in search of the Lord to Pandaripuram along with his family and pleaded the Lord to give him darshan.  With HIS cool benevolent grace, the Lord not only gave him darshan but also revived his dead son and Gora’s arms.  Such is the soulabhyam of Lord Pandurangan.  Gorakumbar stayed in Pandirpur composing abhangs and involving in devotional service and finally attained the Lotus feet of the Lord at Pandirpuram.  This Samadhi mandir is situated in a small lane and is easily accessible.

Contemplating on Gora’s bhakti , we proceeded to the next lane to have darsanam of Namdev, another foremost devotee.

NAAMDEV- LORD’S BEST FRIEND 

Namdev mandir is close to Gorakumbar’s mandir.  Namdev was a child prodigy.  Right from his birth, he was always immersed in Bhakti.  At the tender age of five, he invoked Lord Vittalaan to come personally and honour the food offerings made by him.  The Lord had a special liking for Namdev and used to spend entire time with Namdev.  All his family members were devotees of Vittalan.  While so many bhaktas used to visit HIM daily, the Lord preferred to go to Namdev’s house and mingle with everyone.  Janabai who was brought up by Namdev excelled in  prema bhakti towards the Lord.  In one of her abhangs, she sings “NAAMDEV KAREY KIRTAN, NAACHEY PANDURANGA…”

While Namdev does kirtan, Pandurangan used to dance.   Once when there was a heavy downpour in Pandirpur, Namdev’s old dilapidated roof was giving way.  To save HIS devotee from getting drenched, Pandurangan’s sudarshana chakram acted like an umbrella under the roof and the Lord HIMSELF  was holding the walls from giving way thereby getting drenched.  Jaana bai was perplexed and fortunate to see the Lord’s act.

Presently, Namdev’s house is a two storey building and in the ground floor, we can darsanam of Pandurangan. Every day, devotees assemble in the big hall and do kirtan.   The inmates informed us that Namdev invited Pandurangan to have lunch on a Diwali and the Lord had “sweet puris” in their house.  At the entrance, there is a separate sannidhi for Namdev holding Tambura.

TUKARAM MANDIR

We then proceeded to Tukaram mandir.  Sant Tukaram lived in Dehu and left for Vaikuntam from Dehu.  As mentioned earlier, we were lucky to have darsanam of Tukaram at Dehu on his disappearance day celebrated as “Tukaram Beej”.  Tukaram’s vigraham is being worshipped here .  The caretaker informed us that during AAshada Yatra, the pilgrims who carry Tukaram’s paalki  from Dehu reach this place and stay here to have darshan.  In the big hall in front of the sannidhi, devotees gather everyday to do kirtan and sing Tukaram’s abhangs.

The holy mantra “ JAI JAI RAMAKRISHNA HARI” which Tukaram  Maharaj always used to meditate upon was softly being played in music system.

Few devotees holding Tambura and standing in the hall were softly singing the abhangs.

After having darshan of the important places, we returned to ISKCON at about 1300 hours .The Lord once again graced us as we were fortunate to have “Rajbhog prashadam” of nearly 15 items -rice,rotis, 5 types of vegetables, sweets, payasam ,curd etc which is otherwise not given.

We learnt from the auto driver that Kurmadasar’s Samadhi at Laul and Sant Savantamaali’s Samadhi at Aaran were on the way to Kurduwadi. Kurduwadi is about 1 hour journey from Pandirpur  but to visit Laul and Aaran, we need to go by vehicle.

Initially, we had booked our return train ticket from Solapur to Secunderabad .  The tickets were waitlisted and we were not sure whether the train originating from Mumbai would have enough quota for the tickets to get confirmed.  Just 3 days ahead of our trip, a divine will from our Perumal sannidhi prevailed upon to check ticket availability  from Kurduwadi. And lo! Confirmed tickets were available.   Now we realized the divine plan of the Lord.  It may be noted that Pandirpur is about 80 kms from Solapur and about 41 kms from Kurduwadi.  As we were familiar with Solapur, we initially booked ticket from that place .  Who can understand Lord’s playing.  Lord wanted us to have darsanam of another two great bhaktas and enacted this plan.

WE checked out at 1430 hours. Thanking Praveen prabhu who made all arrangements for us during our stay and giving some donation for cow and ghat construction, we left by car arranged by Praveen prabhu for Rs.1600/-

Reached Aaran , the place where a gardener by name ,Sant Savanta Maali was granted darsanam by Vittalan.  This place is about 32 kms from Pandirpur on the way to Kurduwadi.  This incident is always referred along with Kurmadasar.

KURMADASAR”-

LORD VITTALAN SERVED THIS DEVOTEE DURING HIS YATRA TO PANDHARPUR     AND SAVANTA MAALI-THE GARDENER WHO DID PUSHPA KAINKARYAM TO THE LORD

Kurmadasar, another devotee of Pandurangan who lived in Paitan(Prathistanapuram) about 450 kms away from Pandirpur desired to have darsanam of the Lord on HIS appearance day-Aashada Ekadasi.  As he had tiny limbs, he couldn’t walk  and used to literally crawl.  One year before Aashada Ekadasi, he undertook the yatra. Many discouraged him and mocked at him for this tedious task.  But as he was firm in his devotion, he started off on Pandirpur yaatra.  Every day, he could crawl for about only 7-8 kms and take rest.  Lord Pandurangan was moved by his act and personally came to serve him.  The Lord used to accompany Kurmadasar and help him in his journey, cook food for him, wash clothes, make all necessary arrangements for rest and would leave him.  Next day, HE would again reach the place where Kurmadasar was halting and do all the services including pressing his legs. In this way, Kurmadasar took almost a year to come upto Laul.  He was now totally exhausted and couldn’t move even an inch.  He cried piteously watching the varkaaris go to Pandirpur for having darshan on the following day, Aashada Ekadasi.  The plight of Kurmadasar was too much for the Lord to bear.  The Lord alongwith Namdev and Jnaneswar set out of the temple to give darsanam. 

When the trio reached AAran, the Lord suddenly disappeared from Namdev and Jnaneswar and approached SavantA maali, the gardener who was making garland for Vittalan .

The Lord requested SAvanta Maali, who was a great devotee to protect HIM from two thieves-Namdev and Jnaneswar.  Savanta maali who understood that it was the Lord, put the garland on Vittan and requested HIM to occupy his heart which was the darkest place.  Lord entered Savant Maali’s heart .  Namdev and Jnaneswar entered the garden in search of the Lord.  Looking at Savanta Maali’s face which was glowing, Jnaneswar understood the Lord’s whereabouts and prayed.  Thus, Vittalan gave darsanam to this gardener.  Lord gave darshan to Savant Maali who attained the Lord’s lotus feet.  A beautiful temple has been constructed here which was once a garden.  In the sannidhi, we can find Savantamaali’s face on the Samadhi and Panduranga-Rakumayi’s vigraham behind.  Pictures of Savanta Maali with the Lord in his heart can be seen.

Drove to Laul which is about 5 kms from Kurduwadi and about  14 kms from AAran. The location of Aaran,Laul and Kurduwadi are in triangular shape.

We reached Kurmadasar’s sannidhi at about 4 P.M.  After giving darshan to Savant maali, the Lord along with Namdev and Jnaneswar proceeded to the place where Kurmadasar was suffering with pain. This place is at Laul.  The compassionate Lord took Kurmadasar on HIS lap (like how Lord Rama put Jatayu on HIS lap at Taket) and caressed him.  By having darsan of the Lord, Kurmadasar was relieved of all his bodily inflictions and prayed to  God to give him moksha at this place.

When we visited this place, a marriage party were just leaving the temple.  This Samadhi mandir is very different from what we had seen earlier.  On the walls of the big hall in front of the Samadhi, Krishna leelas and Vittalan leelas are painted.

  The Samadhi mandir is very dark inside.  There is a narrow,small entrance to the sannidhi and one has to completely bend down to get inside. We can find vigrahams of Pandurangan and Rakumayi and in front of them, we find the Samadhi.  Unlike other temples where  the face of the devotee is worshipped,here we do not find any such thing.  What we find is  a small bund covered with a green cloth like a tortoise shell similar to the ones which we see in Muslim dhargaas)  .

A devotee informed us that this place was like a forest and during Muslim rule, a sepoy who was passing by suddenly saw a light from this place.  He attained tranquility at this place and as a thanks-giving, covered the Samadhi with a cloth .

It is believed that Kurmadasar’s presence at this place can be felt by the devouts even today.  Later a temple was constructed and once again stands as a proof for Hindu-Muslim unity. A very small siva lingam and Hanuman are kept in the hall.

  Both Hindus and Muslims throng to have darsanam of Kurmadasar here.

This marks the end of our Bhajey Panduranga Bhaagavatha yaatra.

All glories to the Spiritual masters .

.All glories to the holy dhaam .

.All glories to the varkarees

All glories to the devotees who have read this post and got  blessed by HIS mercy

JAI JAI RAMAKRISHNA HARI

BRIEF ACCOUNT OF THE PLACES:

With Aurangabad as base, we can visit the following places in  one day

• Paitan (Prathisthanapuram) 60 kms from Aurangabad:- Bhanudasar’s and Eknath Maharaj’s residence which is about 2 kms from samadhi, Eknath’s Samadhi, Naag ghat where Jnaneswar made buffalo recite vedas, Godavari river
• Devagiri mountain in Dauladabad Fort –about 12 kms from Aurangabad:- Sri Janardhan Swami’s Samadhi popularly known as Janardhan Swamy’s charan paadhuka
• Grushneshwar:- about 4 kms from Ellora caves-one of the 12 jyotirlinga considered to be the last jyotirlinga
• Soolipanjan:- 10 kms beyond Grushneshwar- a small hillock which was Eknath’s meditation place, temple of Dattatareyar, Janardhana Swami and Eknath, the musical rock .
• Aape Gaon :- on the way to Nevasa from Aurangabad-Jnaneswar’s birth place- the wall which moved due to Jnaneswar’s mahima can be seen
• Nevasa:- known as “Nevasa Phata” is about 65 kms frim Aurangabad on Pune highway. The  Kalleshwar mandir  at Nevasa is about 7 kms from the bus stop.  Here the pillar which served Jnaneswar as support while he was giving commentary on Bhagavad Gita known as “Bhaavartha Deepika” is worshipped along with the Siva lingam. The commentaries given by Jnaneswar Maharaj popularly known as “Mouli” here was penned down by his disciple Sachidanandam and the buffalo which recited the Vedas in Paithan used to nod its head.

Triyambakeswar:- 30 kms from nasik-one of the 12 jyotir lingas.  About 2 kms from this Shiva temple on the way to Godavari origin, a small temple for Nivrutti where he attained Samadhi is there.  As we didn’t know the exact location, we skipped this.  This was informed by a devotee. (From Aurangabad, we can take a train to Nasik, visit Triyambakeswar and then proceed to Pune.

Dehu,Alandi,Saswad, Triyambakeswar, Sajjangad are all around Pune but in different directions. ISKCON’S new centre NVC which is about 18 kms from the city and Ahobila Mutt more popularly known as “Balaji Mandir,Pashaan can also be visited)

Or

(From Aurangabad via Nevasa,Ahmednagar(popularly known as Nagar) take bus to Pune which is  about 7 hours journey) (In case you are engaging a car from Aurangabad to Pune, the route would be:-

Aurangabad-Nevasa-Nagar-Alandi-Pune-Dehu-Pune-Sasvad-Sajjangad-Pandirpur

• Alandi:- samadhi mandir of the most renowned Maharashtrain saint ,Sant Jnaneswar Maharaj is about 22 kms north of In the huge temple complex, we can have darshan of the samadhis of Jnaneswar Maharaj, buffalo, the rare tree known as “Ajanavruksh” under which he took Samadhi, the banyan tree which Jnaneswar’s mother used to circumbulate 1008 times daily, the palanquin on which Jnaneswar’s padhukas are placed  which is used by the varkaris for going to Pandirpur for Aashada Ekadasi, the beautiful vigrahams of Rakumayi-Pandurangan, Muktabai sannidhi, Siddheshwar sannidhi. Devotees sit in the big hall outside the Samadhi mandir and keep on reciting Bhaavartha Deepika.
• Dehu:- about 30 kms north of Pune(slightly on the north-western side) . Through Dehu-Alandi road, we can commute to both the places which is about 25 kms .  However, this route is closed on busy days like Tukaram Beej.  All the places here are connected to Tukaram Maharaj.  We can have darshan of his house, the place from where he left for Vaikuntam, Bandaara Hills which is about 8 kms from this place where he used to often meditate.
• Saswad:- about 30 kms south of Pune on Pune-Pandharpur road. Muktabai attained Samadhi here.  This was informed by a devotee. As we didn’t know about this, we didn’t visit this place..
• 

Keeping Satara as base, we can visit Sajjan gad and Uttara Chidambaram temple.  ISKCON has its centre here (contact:- 08806619098/09881252581) for any information.  There are guest houses near Uttara Chidambaram temple.

• Sajjan gad :- about 130 kms south of Pune and about 20 kms from Satara. Nearest town is Satara.  It takes about 3 hours from Pune to reach SAtara because the vehicle has to travel through ghat roads.  In Sajjangad, we can find Samartha Ramdas Samadhi, Sriram mandir, the articles used by the great saint who was an incarnation of Hanuman.  The temple is situated on a hill and we need to ascend about 100+ steps .  Dolis are also available.

• Pandirpur:-In Pandirpur,Chandrabhaga river, Pundalikan’s and his parents Samadhi on the banks of Chandrabhaga, Pundalikans’ house which is the present Vittal mandir, at the entrance, we can find the samadhis of Chokamela, Namdev along with his 14 family members, Kaangopatra who assumed the form of a tree is in the temple premises, Namdev’s house which houses a beautiful vigraham of Pandurangam and a separate sannidhi for Namdev, Gora Kumbar’s Samadhi temple , Narahari Sona’s Samadhi on the way to temple, Mallikarjuneshwar Swamy’s temple opposite to Narahari sona’s Samadhi, Tukaram temple where there is a beautiful sannidhi for Tukaram. The varkaris from Dehu along with Tukaram’s palanquin stay here during Aashada Ekadasi, Jnaneswar mandir where the varkaris with Jnaneswar’s palanquin from Alandi reach Pandirpur and stay, Kabirdas’ house and his son Kamaal’s Samadhi,  Sakkubai and Janabai temples in Gopalpuri and of course, ISKCON Radha Pandirnath temple which has guest house accommodation.Decent  accomodation is also available at Gajanand Ashram near the temple. ISKCON is located on the other side of Chandrabhaga river .Autos charge about Rs.90/- to Vittal temple from ISKCON. ISKCON helps us in making vehicle arrangement even during odd hours.

• Aaran:- On the way to Kurduwadi from Pandirpur with a slight left turn after driving for about 9 kms from Pandharpur, we find the Samadhi mandir of Sant Savant Maali .this is about 32 kms from ISKCON Pandirpur.
• Laul:- 14 kms from Aaran , we find the Samadhi mandir of Kurmadasar. Kurduwadi is about 11 kms from Laul (pronounced as “LA VUL”)
• Mangalvedha:- about 25 kms from Pandharpur and 56 kms from Solapur- Kaangopatra lived here. There is the Samadhi mandir of Narasing Mehta

All glories to the great saints and the devotees

Adiyen offers countless dandaavats to the mahasants who were able to please the LORD to remain here in the wonderful dhaam .

The black and white pics have been borrowed from the paintings of the great Painter – Mr . Raghuveer Mulgaonkar ( Thank you very much Sir ) 

It was the time when LORD RAMA was on the shores of the Indian ocean during the preparations for the cross-over to Lanka . Having supervised the bridge construction for long time , LORD wanted to take some rest. Hence He removed His bows and arrows from His shoulders, dropped them on the ground and lay Himself for some time. Later ,when He got up and took his bows and arrows from the ground, He was shocked to see some blood on the tip of one of His arrows.

Pandava Dhootha Perumal Temple   ( Thirupadagam ) Kancheepuram

Pandava Dhootha Perumal Temple  ( Thirupadagam )  is located in Kancheepuram in Tamilnadu.

1 km West of Kanchipuram Bus Stand we can proceed to this temple to have a darshan of LORD KRISHNA  which is very special We can see  LORD  Krishna in a majestic sitting posture (facing East), almost  25 feet in height suggestive of the Lord’s Vishvaroopam.

Lord Krishna  in order to make peace with the Kauravas,  proceeds  to Hastinapura to the court of Duryodhana on behalf of the Pandavas. 

With a plot to  harm Lord  Krishna and thus to put all hopes of a peace treaty,  the evil Duryodhana digs a pit and tops it with bamboo sticks.

On this bamboo topped pit, he puts up a grand stage, thus setting up  Lord Krishna for a mega fall.  Once he enters the hall, the all knowing  Lord Krishna presses the stage with his little toe to send it crushing below.

And immediately after,  Lord Krishna displays his Vishwaroopam to the blind Dhirdharashtra (and only to him), by giving him the vision.

After having the darshan of  the Lord in his full divine form, a delighted Dhirdharashtra requests  Lord Krishna to restore his blindness, for he does not want to see anything else after having darshan of  the Lord himself.

  Years after this episode, Arjuna’s grandson Janmejaya, who listened to the Mahabharata story from Vaisampaayana wanted to experience  the moment (that of Lord Krishna Vishwaroopa darshanam )  .

He undertook penance at this place.  Lord Krishna is believed to have  graced him with darshan , as ‘Pandava Dhootha’, in the same way he had in the Mahabharatha episode. Having played the role of a messenger for the Pandavas,  Lord Krishna, here at this temple, is known by that same name  Pandava Dhootha Perumal.

 It is said  that in this holy place  there was a 18 day debate between  Swami Ramanuja and Yaghya Moorthy . Having lost the debate to Swamy  Ramanuja, the Scholar is said to have become his disciple and was given the  name to Arulaala Perumal Emberumaanar. Check the appended post below about the saints devotion for JagathAcharyar Swamy Ramanuja ..

https://atomic-temporary-2692795.wpcomstaging.com/2015/06/15/ekadandee-to-tridandee-arulala-perumal-emberumanar-vaibhavam/

The tower above Lord Krishna in  Pandava Dhoodha Perumal  is called Badra Vimana

Jai Sree Krishna

Photos : Credits Google images /Adiyen tour pics

Adiyen Ramanuja dasan

THIRUNEERMALAI

This  Srivaishnava divyadesam is located near Pallavaram in Chennai . The temple is located  on a hillock and one must  climb  around 250 steps to have darshan of the LORD  .The glory  of this divya desam is related to this temple is described in Brahmanda Puranam and other Sanskrit literature.

This holy  hill was previously known as “Thoyagiri” meaning hill surrounded by water. When our Thirumangai Azhwar had visited this holy spot and glorified the LORD this place  came to be known as Thiru neer malai” . LORD  (Perumal) gives darshan  in 4 Thirukolam which is compared to the other divya desams by Thirumangai Azhwar as given below (2-4-1)

Nindra(standing):-  Lord Ramar (at foot of hill) =Thirunaraiyur Sri Thirunaraiyur nambi
Kidandha (lying):- Lord  Ranganathar= Thirukudandhai Sri Aaraamudhan
Irundha(sitting) :- Lord Saantha Narasimhar =Thiruvaali Sri Lakshmi Narasimhar
Nadandha(walking):-  Lord Thiruvikraman =Thirukovaloor Trivikraman

As mentioned earlier, one can have darshan of LORD in 4 places and in  4 forms –as  Lord Ramar in Standing posture at the foot of the hill,  Lord Sri Ranganathar in reclining posture under Sri Ranga vimanam, as  Lord Santha Narasimhar in sitting posture, as  Lord Sri Trivikraman in walking posture.

During his visit to this kshetram, the great sage Valmiki  of  Srimad Ramayanam fame  , was not content having darsanam of  Lord Sri Ranganathar and  Lord Narasimhar. He had a desire to have darshan of  Lord Ramar also . Understanding the rishi’s desire, Lord Ranganathar appeared as Ramar, Lakshmi as Sita, Adisesha as Lakshmana, Sankhu and Chakra as Barata-Shatruguna, Viswaksena as Sugreevan, Garudan as Anjaneyar and blessed the rishi at the foot of the Hill. Lord whose complexion is dark blue was praised by Valmiki as Neervannan and at the request of the rishi, Perumal continued to reside at the  foot of the hill. The utsava vigraham of Lord  Ranganathar is kept in this sannidhi only.Since this hill was surrounded by water due to incessant rains for 6 months when Tirumangai Azhwar arrived, this place came to be known as Thiruneermalai.

Earlier it was called “gaandavanam” as mentioned in his pasuram no. 1079 Any  merit (punyam) done here fetches multifold  benefit.  As per the locals ,devotees who visit this holy place  will be blessed with longevity.

Any homam for longevity, for marriage etc performed here fetches manifold benefit. One can have the content of having darsanam of Ahobilam, Srirangam, Thirukovalur,Ayodhya divya desams here as Perumal gives His darshan as Lord Narasimhar, Lord Ranganathar , Lord Trivikraman and Lord Ramar
SRI ANIMAMALAR MANGAI NAYIKA SAMETHA
SRI NEERVANNA SWAMINEY NAMAH

Adiyen Ramanuja dasan

Jagathacharyar Swami Ramanuja was explaining to his disciples about the glory of Tirumala . All of a sudden he remembered his dear disciple Ananthazhwan  and  felt like seeing him  who was at Tirumala and have darshinam of Lord  Venkatateshwara.

Ananthazvan  obediently followed Acharyars instructions  and was successful in laying a garden with all kinds of beautiful and pleasant  fragrant  flowers which  he offered  as soon as it started blooming  to ensure the fragrance remains with LORD  daily .

He also  dug  a small pond for gardening the plants  .Swami Ramanuja was very glad to know  about  his disciple  Ananthazvan dedication in serving the LORDSHIPS .

Swamy Ramanuja   proceeded his journey towards  Tirumala with  few  of his disciples from Srirangam  . In those days Tirumalai was very  hard to reach and there was dense forest on the way. The climate was also not suitable as it was too cold on the hill.  Two of his  disciples were staying  near to Tirupathy .

He sent word through two of his disciples to one Yaghyesar who was a rich man to make arrangements for his stay. Yaghyesar was thrilled to hear the news and started making elaborate arrangements, but failed to look after the disciples who  had come all the way  who gave him the message.

 They were  not given proper attention .When  Swamy Ramanuja came to know  about this he felt sad and decided to  avoid going to his  house .Instead he preferred to visit  his other disciple Varadachari. Varadachari  was a poor man and  was living with daily  biksha as per gruhasta ashrama  .

His wife Lakshmi was at home when Swami Ramanuja  along with his disciples went to their  house.  Varadacharis wife was  very happy to  have darisanam of their  Acharayar and  disciples. She  requested them to have food at her house, but told them to take rest at the nearby temple  tank  garden  until she finished cooking.

Sadly  she had no groceries to cook for the guests  and she was in a predicament.  She prayed LORD for HIS mercy .  As time was also moving fast , and her husband did not return  an idea struck her.  In the same village there was a merchant who  used to  show  interest in her and wanted to have relationship with her .

All along Lakshmi being a chaste woman, never yielded to his advances. As a difficult situation arose ,  she thought that she could  submit to  the merchant’s  advances and get money to buy things for  her Acharyar and the bhagavathas. After all it was a wonderful occassion to serve Acharyar who has come directly to their small hut .She prayed Acharyar from her heart and seeked his mercy to help her

.

She went to the merchant’s  shop and pleaded  him  to give her groceries for serving their Acharyar and the bhagavathas and was willing to submit to his advances in exchange .

The merchant, though surprised to hear this, sent all  the groceries that she wanted. Lakshmi went home and cooked food and after offering it to Lord, she served  Acharyar  and the bhagavathas . 

 It was  suprising for  her  husband Varadachari to suddenly see the bhagavathas and  his Acharyar right in their small hut  .  He offered repeated obeisances to Acharyar .He thanked all  of them for being so merciful.He  silently praised his wife for the wonderful satsangh and ThadiAaradhanai she was carrying in no time  .

 Yet , he was confused how Lakshmee could manage the Prasadam to so many bhagavathas  as he knew they had no stock in their home . He took her aside and asked her how she was able to manage .

Lakshmee with tears told him all that had happened and expressed helplessness in taking that decision . Varadachari  was as cool as as a cucumber . He praised her for her  timely decision and submitted to the will of Acharyar .

  He took her hand and went in front of Acharyar and both prostrated to Swami Ramanuja .  With tears rolling both the disciples expressed whatever had happened  .

Swamy Ramanuja was wonderstruck to hear this. He  advised  them to have their  prasad  and take the remaining food to the merchant’s house.Varadachari and Lakshmi went to the merchant’s house together carrying  Swamy Ramanuja’s sreepada tirtham (holy water) and the  prasad that was honoured by Swamy Ramanuja . Varadachari  requested  the merchant  to accept the  prasad and the holy theertham ( Charanamruth) ..

After  honouring the prasadam that was leftovers from the Acharyar , the merchant behaviour  changed . The merchant was overcome by feelings of disgust with himself.

He walked around the couple and prostrated on the ground in front of them, saying —  “you are like my parents —

please forgive my ignorance and stupidity and take me to your guru so that I may take refuge in him”…..

They all went back to their house and Swami Ramanuja’s grace made all three of them to progress further in the spiritual bliss .

Swamy Ramanuja accepted the merchant as his disciple. The merchant had offered all his wealth to   Swamy Ramanuja and  Swamy  in turn  offered it to  his disciple Varadachari. But ,  Varadachari refused to accept it saying that his guru kataksham was his most cherished wealth.

Thus  Swamy Ramanuja proved that guruvaruL would create miracles!

The merchant  wept with joy saying —

“you are not a human woman but a goddess you have sacrificed everything, you wanted to sacrifice  your honour too .

 He immediately told  Swamy Ramanuja who was overwhelmed by their devotion to him and blessed them again and again. 

All glories to our JagataAcharyar

Adiyen Ramanuja dasan

Photos and videos  : Courtesy Google and SVBC channel

As per the order of JagathAcharyar Swamy Ramanuja  Anathazhwan served LORD VENKATESHWARA at Tirumala hills . He maintained a garden and was offering fragrant flowers to LORD .The garden  was planted with vakula , patala , punnaga , shenbaga and other flower bearing fragrant trees , the bunches of flowers hanging from the branches , entertaining the ears of pilgrims with strains of music poured forth by bees and all kinds of plumaged birds ,  humming bees , cuckoos and the chirping of birds made the garden a  perfect place for divinity .

Nammazwar’s hymns referring to the Lord as residing in flower bedecked  ThiruVenkata Hills( Sindhupoo maghizhum Thiruvengadam) was   aptly reverberating .

One day , on routine checks Azhwan  became upset .He found that the  garden had been defiled.

The flower plants were somehow looking  tramped  by a foreigner . The fruits were plucked and strewn hither and thither. He guessed someone had visited the garden and were running around  freely .  Nobody around could tell him how this had happened. The gate man was clueless. Ananthazhvan  with his disciples kept  a watch for intruders. It was the  beautiful  Spring season ( Vasantha ruthuvu).

Ananthazhvan was hiding underneath a bush. At dead end of the night, he could see a  divine princely couple with wonderful ornaments moving  inside  the garden. For a moment he was overjoyed with the divinity in their  appearance , however   he was also overtaken by  their play that caused withering of the plants and the fragrant flowers .

He decided to catch them and hence made attempt by slowly following  the couple. He was surprised to see both of them smiling and allowing themselves to be under his control . Azhwan decided to tie them to a tree and wait for the next day to arrive for handing over them to the security .

However the charming prince who was very handsome  escaped from Anathazhwan’s clutches. The princess  however could not escape as she was  moved  by  our Azhwans pure  bhakthi.  Azhwan  out of sheer love to LORD   questioned the divine lady   underneath a Champaka tree .

Why were you two  inside this  garden that was exclusively being maintained for serving LORD VENKATESHWARA .  

How can one commit such offence of  meddling with the  garden flowers that were being grown only for the service of LORD . Azhwan asked about their living and what way they were connected to the Holy hills not knowing she was JAGANMATHA herself .

The divine  lady answered,  Swamin “I am like your daughter. I did no wrong.  I  and my husband  who just left me out of your fear ( smilingly )  are the rulers of these Hills. My Lord wanders all  over the Hills as he pleases. He must have entered your  garden and enjoyed the beauty  and was moved with the bhakthi of yours to LORD . I am not responsible for  whatever  has happened. Please allow me to leave .  Being proficient in   sastras you must accept as a wife I cannot mention the name of my Lord  ….

Please leave me free. Azhvan  out of  respect and moved by the divine lady’s words  replies .. Amma … You look like Mahalakshmi. Verily, you are like  a daughter to me.   Your husband is sure to come searching for you. Let him  come in the morning. I will take a ransom from him and then release you. Till  then,  I am sorry  you will have to be under this Champaka  tree ,”  and our Ananthazhvan was holding vigil  the whole night to meet the Supreme LORD …..

little did he realize that LORD was enacting a divine leela to be cherished by all of us .

The next morning the Archakas opened  the temple gate and went into the sanctum sanctorum for the morning rituals. They were surprised   to note that the golden locket covering Alarmelmangai on the chest of the Lord was missing. The temple officials of the temple grew suspicious.

At this point of time,  an aasurees  voice was heard by one of the Archakas  pointing out that none of  them  are  guilty   and that when the Lord and  Alarmelmanga were strolling  in the Swamy Ramanuja garden  maintained by  the devotee Ananthzhvan,  out of abundant mercy Goddess Mahalakshmee  has submitted  to Azhwan . 

She was under the Champaka tree under the watchful eye of Azhvan. The Lord commanded the  Archakas of the temple to go to the garden and  honor  the azhvan  and with respects invite Azhwan to the temple.

Promptly, the  Archakas went to the garden  with the temple honours and were bewildered to see Alarmelmanga who was in the disguise of princess and Azhwan under the Champaka tree. In the Dvaparayuga, the Lord was tied to the mortar by Yasoda. The same way, in this Kaliyuga, Alarmelmanga was tieddown to the Champaka tree  by Anathazhwan.

They conveyed to him the Lord’s command. Ananthazhvan with full remorse  begged pardon and was  crest-fallen that he has done  bhagavath apachara. With all humility he seeked forgivance for the unexpected error . He immediately  released Alarmelmanga and prostrated  before her  repeatedly praying for forgiveness. 

Alarmelmanga  smilingly advised that  Anathazhwan that he should consider her as his daughter as agreed . Immediately, she transformed herself into a  princess . Anathazhwan finishing his morning oblations took his   daughter with flowers and garlands in procession to the temple. He bowed before the Lord  repeatedly and humbly praying for  his mercy said LORD please forgive me for the foolish act .

Here Adiyen has come with the Jaganmatha .Please forgive me and accept heras she was so kind to bless me in being her father . The  divine princess  immediately transformed herself and adorned the chest of Lord Srinivasa.

This was the origin of the tradition considering Alarmelmanga as the daughter of Anathazhwan and the Lord of the Seven Hills as Anathazhwan’s son in-law. In the Tamil month of Purattasi, during the Rathotsavam, on the eigth day of  Srivari Brahmotsava, it is customary even today to adorn the Lord with Pitamabara and silken cloth as Sambhavana of Anathazhwan,the father-in-law.  There is a benediction to Anathazhwan…

Malaiyil vengadavarkku mamanar valiye

Alarmelmangai tiruvukku appanar valiye

(Glory to Ananthazhvan who is the father-in-law of Lord Srinivasa!

 Glory to Ananthazhvan who is the  father of Alarmenmangai!)

 Swamy Ananthalwan joined eternity with  Lord  Venkateshwara on the sacred Thiru Adi Pooram day ( July- August) .

Even today , Lord Venkateswara visits this  garden and bestows honours on the Magizha Tree.  

The satari at the main sanctum sanctorum is glorified as  Sadagopa in remembrance of Nammazhwar.

The  Satari  in the Swamy Ramanuja shrine is  glorified as Ananthalwan.

The Vaishnava community always held religious beliefs as filling too vital a function in sustaining individual morality and morale and social order and control.

Adiyen Ramanuja dasan

Pics courtesy : Google images uploaded by several devotees

Saalagramam ( Mukthinath )  is the only vaishnava  divya dEsam located   outside of India. … Muktinath describes a region on the banks of the Gandaki River .It is revealed in scriptures

Gandakyamcha uttare teere  Girirajasya dakshine 

Dasayojana vistheernaam Mahakshetra Vasundharaa

Salagramo Mahadevo devi Dwaravati bhaved

Ubhayossangamo yatra  Muktisttattra na samsaya.”

 Literally means ……

“To the north of the river, Gandaki  and south of the Himalayas, there is the holy region of Salagrama, which is ten yojanas extent,  and here Dwaravati merges into Salagrama.  Undoubtedly such a place is capable of vouchsafing Moksha.”

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 Muktinath    Divya  desam  located  in Nepal   is an important pilgrimage site for  Sri Vaishnavites and Buddhists.

It is one of the eight swayam vyakta kshetrams

(-out of this 4 are in southern India and 4 in Northern India).

In Northern India,  LORD has manifested Himself in the form of forest at Naimisaranyam, as  divine water in Pushkar, as mountain in Badrinath  and as Fossils in Saalagramam kshetram whereas in rest of India Lord is glorified  in Archa form (Tirumala, Srirangam) .

The best season to visit   this holy place ( Mukthinaath) “saalagramam” is during March-April  OR during September to 1s week of October.

May to August is rainy season and is not advisable as per locals .

As a visit to this place bestows liberation, this kshetram is known as Mukthi kshetram and LORD here is glorified as MUKTHI NARAYANAN.

This piligrimage was undertaken during 2006 and was posted in www.srivaishnavam.com Adiyen  was keen to share the pictures and video clips as requested by few devotee friends in the blog which happened recently  . The present  situation  as per the experiences of piligrims is   roads are good and  transport arrangements are available right from Jomson to Mukthinath . 

Also the road to Pokara to Mukthinath is approachable and made motor able with some  excellent reviews as seen from their  good experiences .

Before  continuing  with my travel diary done during 2006 , Adiyen  offer my sincere obeisance’s to Sri Rangasri group members , ISCKON Maharajs and several great devotees of LORD who played a pivotal role in making this trip possible with whatever information they could give me  when Internet was not  really at reach of a common man .

This divya desam darshan was very special to all of us .  My family joined me in having darshan of all the 105 Divya desams since 2002 .

And  Mukthinath darshan was the last temple we all wished to have darshan .

The excitement and the thirst to be there was to the peaks as it was very special . Elders encouraged us to proceed but were worried as we were taking our two kids who were too young  and in case they fell sick etc ……

Whatsoever…. ,

we decided to proceed with total surrender to the Supreme Lord

 There are different modes of transport to reach Muktinath from Jomsom.

• By walk
• By pony ride
• By motor cycle (charge 2200 NR with 2 hours stay in Muktinath)
• By tractor (depends upon the no. of passengers)

The package for Rs.5,500/- INR which included hotel stay at Jomsom and Muktinath, 2 ponies, overnight stay allowance to pony rider and trekking permits  was considered good enough  during  the year 2006 as we did not have any alternative though  we later learnt  it was exorbitant.

The climate in Pokhara valley is unpredictable.  To add to our tension, there was a heavy downpour in the evening and we had our apprehensions regarding next day’s flight to Jomsom.

 We lost our confidence due to the changing  weather  as flights would be cancelled in case of storms .

We chanted Sri Vishnu sahsranamam and  surrendered  to  Perumal  for  mercy …

 We knew that it was “NOW or NEVER” .  We had to go to Muktinath at any cost and reach Gorakpur as planned ,because there  was only one train to Secunderabad from Gorakpur and  had to leave for Tirupati  as planned   ^. More over all the tickets were confirmed .

  We realized  there was NOTHING and only HIS  ABUNDANT GRACE could make us visit MUKTINATH.   The day finally arrived .

It was   Pournami ( Full moon day )  , the auspicious month of Purattasi.  Submitting to the divine  grace LORD and  finishing   our morning prayers, we left to Pokhara  airport which is a 10 minute drive from the hotel. 

 Our flight was scheduled to depart at 8.30 A.M. (fifth flight).

Gorkha Airlines and Royal Nepal Air lines  operates service for POKHARA-JOMSOM-POKHARA sector presently .

 For the record, Royal Nepal Airlines,  have only 1 or 2 flights operating ( Depending on the r conditions  ) is known to be the most unreliable airline in Nepal.

There are many other airlines flying to Pokhara and Jomsom, such as Nikon Air, Buddha Air and Cosmic Air, but   presently not  been operating . The private airlines are more reliable in Nepal.

Out of their 2 flights, only one was operational and this has to make atleast 5 trips every day to clear the traffic.  As mentioned earlier, the services resumed only 2 days earlier after a gap of 10 days.   

To our dismay, we learn t that though it was nearly 9 A.M., the first trip itself did not take off due to fog.  Boarding pass were not issued to us because our names were in the 5^th trip.  The officials were doubtful because after 11 AM , flights cannot reach Jomsom due to heavy winds and if the wind doesn’t subside the flight will be cancelled .

This was a shocking news to us ……..

Our hearts beat fast…  chanting Dwayam and mahamantra … My mind races to all the corners of the small airport . My body shivers …. I look around ….pleading LORD …

There’s a light breeze, which is chilly.

The sky is  now gone blue and the tops of the mountains  are slowly becoming clear. 

We started reciting  Sri Vishnu Sahasranaamam in the airport  and prayed ardently to Periya Thiruvadi   ( Garuda bhagavan )and Siriya Thiruvadi  ( Bhaktha hanuman )  for their intervention in reaching Lords abode .

The children were excited when  the sky became  more clear and the flights  were being resumed.

Chanting Vishnu Sahasranaamam was mandatory for all of us  .

  Our turn to board the flight came at 11 A.M. 

Thanking the Lord, with tears rolling , we boarded the 20 seater propeller flight with window seats for everyone at 11 A.M .

 We’re  now on the plane. The air hostess was kind . Making us feel comfortable , we looked at the abundant mountains all over  as she asked us to see through the windows .. 

Just 18 passengers plus the flight attendant squeezed into these little seats.

No overhead baggage compartment. 

A different feeling all together …..The flight attendant  once again came and passed out some sweets and cotton for people to plug their ears.

The captain was still checking out the RPMs of the propeller .

We are about to take off and we  all chanted the juicy name  loudly

GOVINDA …….GOVINDA ….REMEMBERING OUR LORD GOVINDA

We’re in the air now.

It’s a smooth flight.

On the right of the aircraft  Adiyen could  see the white Himalayas, which stand like a great wall between Nepal and China.

On the left were high mountains, but no snow.

Below us are valleys and the  holy  Gandaki river.

The weather is good and  clear . The plane flies between the Himalayas, not over them! 

We are in this  little Dornier aircraft, skims craggy ridge tops and often buffeted by mountain winds.

 Chanting Lords name continuously  we  dare to see the propellers from the window panes ..When an airplane flies to Jomsom they are very close to the mountains on either side of the valley.

Strong winds come off the mountains at times, making it difficult or impossible to fly.

We were told , a  few years ago a flight crashed into the side of one of the mountains and it took them several days to find it. There were no survivors.

  The recent news of a helicopter crashing added to further fear though my wife and kids were relaxed and surrendered to Lords wish.

Just 20 mins from Pokhara flying up the highest-deepest valley in the world, sometimes battling winds of 120 Mph (200 km+) as the clouds lift causing a kind of vacuum effect propelling winds. 

 The flight is moving amidst big mountains, taking sharp turns and is sure to instill fear in everyone but the Lord’s names on our lips drove out the fear in us.

We  are now flying  between Annapurna and Dhaulagiri, two immense glacier covered peaks towering well above the airplane as we flew up the Gandaki river valley. 

We were longing for our lifetime mission to be completed and were enthusiastic and prepared to face the worst situation, if any.

We landed at Jomsom airport in about 20 mins  .

We look around the small airport  surrounded by mountains .

Quickly coming out we see plenty of foreigners accompanying us .

Jomsom is so modern that there’s even an Internet Cafe here.  This is apple country. Apples like cold weather, We took 3 kgs of apples for just 30 rupees.

Thanking Lord very much we briskly moved  and  located the hotel .  As assured the incharge who co ordinated from Pokhra , had made all arrangements for our trip to Muktinath.

Annapurna trekking permit is a must and we had taken our pass port photographs with  Nepalee Rupee  as fees for the same .

2 ponies with a guide were provided.

  Baggages were tied to children’s ponies and myself accompanied by my wife started the holy trek to Muktinath at 12 noon 

While my wife and children were chanting I quickly  procured the Conversation Permit to go trekking in the area surrounding Annapurna Mountain  and understood the ponies were booked no doubt but are awaiting at the banks of gandaki river which is 20 mins trek .

After clearing the town of Jomsom which is modern , we headed out over the stony riverbed. .

I was enthusiastic in revealing the legendary stories about this punya stala to my kids who are distinguished  as they also joined in the 106 Divya desam yathirai effortlessly.

Gandakyamcha uttare teere Girirajasya dakshine Dasayojana vistheernaam Mahakshetra Vasundharaa Salagramo Mahadevo devi Dwaravati bhaved Ubhayossangamo yatra Muktisttattra na samsaya.”

“To the north of the river, Gandaki (also called Narayani), and south of the Himalayas, there is the holy region of Salagrama, which is ten yojanas extent, where Dwaravati merges into Salagrama. Undoubtedly such a place is capable of vouchsafing Moksha.” 

Actually, about 140 miles from Khatmandu is situated Muktimati or Muktikshetra, also called “Salagrama-kshetra.

Legend has it that once Bramha was exasperated at the rate of increase of the sinners among his creation. Then drops of sweat rolled down his cheeks (Ganda), ultimately collecting themselves into the form of a female child called “Gandaki.”

She took it into her head to do a severe penance which became so overwhelming that the Devas started trembling before her. As usual they offered her the bait of a boon on return for her stopping her penance, but they met a Tartar in her, for she wanted to mother all the Devas. Not having the power to grant such a boon, the Devas pleaded their inability, at which Gandaki became furious and cursed all the devas to be born as worms on the earth below.

The Devas in their turn placed a countercurse on her head that she should become “Jada” or inert matter. Naturally Bramha was concerned with this unexpected development. Unable to find a way out, he consulted Indra and Rudra. With them also he drew a blank. Finally, all the three turned to Vishnu, who said: “In as much as the curses have been already pronounced, they cannot be revoked, and both parties affected must suffer them. The problem is how to make them work to their mutual and ultimately universal benefit.” After consideration, Lord  said: ” I shall take up my abode in the Chakra Teertha near Salagramakshetra. You, Devas, shall migrate to this hallowed region as “Vajrakitas” eating into the pebbles. Gandaki shall in the form of a river fill the universe enveloping the shilas hallowed by me.”

Salagrama shilas  are obtained only from the river Gandaki, which is a Himalayan stream, celebrated since antiquity as Narayani, Saligrami, Hiranvati and Hiranyavati.

The epic Mahabharata speaks of its sanctity (Bhishma-parva) . The puranas also describe it as a sacred stream in which all the gods and titans abide . By merely looking at it, one would eliminate all his mental defilement’s, by touching it his bodily sins are burnt up, and by sipping its water the verbal demerits are thrown out.

One who comes into contact with this sacred stream will be liberated from the cycle of birth and deaths, even if he be a sinner.

And for the reason, the river Gandaki became among all the rivers extraordinarily sacred Being a mystic river, looking at it, touching it, bathing in it and sipping its waters will be conductive to eliminate all sins, even the greatest of sins pertaining to the body, speech and mind. Adiyen recollected  them there  are many aspects of this pilgrimage right from   going to the Holy Tirtha of Shalagram high in the Himalayas; the challenge of one’s faith, to be there and to find one’s worshippful Lord; the material elements, and other various hardships – walking many miles/kilometres, high altitude, no food, the weather, the constant wind, wild animals, dacoits and theives, mundane trekkers, so many things.

We are now trekking near the banks of Gandaki river. Which  rises beyond the Himalayan ranges, probably in Tibet, and flows (in the north-south direction) into Nepal, There is a lake at the source of the Kali-Gandaki , called Damodar-kunda on the Nepal .

The lower Gandaki is well known as Mukti-natha-kshetra, also called Saligrama-kshetra. The sacred stones are largely found on the banks of Kali-gandaki near Tukche, between the two mountains Dhavala-giri and Annapurana.

Damodara-Kunda is  considered as  Saivite place of pilgrimage by Nepalis. This is the punya kshetram where saligrama deities  are found within the Nepal territory to the fortunate souls . As advised by my father the children learnt the sloka  by heart  supposed to be chanted while we trek the route .The sloka  goes like this with meaning explained below..

dheya sada savitra mandala madhya-varti— 

naryanah sarasijasana

sannivistah keyuravan makara kundalavan kiriti   

–hari hiranmaya vapuh dhrita sankha cakrah

Narayana is the Supreme Personality of Godhead to be meditated upon in the center of the sun globe. He is situated on a lotus flower and seated in the lotus posture. He is adorned with beautiful golden bracelets, amulets, earrings, necklace and a crown. He has the golden effulgence and is seen holding the pure white conch and Sudarshana cakra in His lotus hands. Oh wielder of the conch, disc, club, and other natural weapons, You are the Lord and resident of the spiritual realm. Oh indestructible one, protector of the worlds, oh lotus eyed Lord, please save all of us who have taken shelter of you and appear before us .

We found there was a path that skirted the riverbed, but we preferred to walk along the riverbed. The children were delighted to see the horseman and the horses at the river bank. As we walked along we started to notice the wind was picking up and the clouds were closing in from the mountains on either side of us.

My children happily rode the horses chanting the Dhyana sloka as I advised them to sincerely pray and look in the river for holy salagrama silas .

En route after offering oblations and sincere  obeisancesto the holy   gandaki river I requested the horse man to help the children in looking for the salagrama  which he readily obliged. The river Gandaki is a very ancient river; and the geologists say that it existed even before the formation of the Himalayan ranges. It rises beyond the Himalayan ranges, probably in Tibet, and flows (in the north-south direction) into Nepal.

And for the reason, the river Gandaki became among all the rivers extraordinarily sacred Being a mystic river, looking at it, touching it, bathing in it and sipping its waters will be conductive to eliminate all sins, even the greatest of sins pertaining to the body, speech and mind. My soul danced with joy looking at the nature and being in Gods own world. We are now in the Lower Mustang belt as per the Map . Mustang is an Anglicization of the Tibetan Lo Manthang, which is an autonomous region in north-central Nepal that borders on Tibet. The destination of our trek today was to reach Mukthinath by evening  .

En route there is the village of Kagbeni (“Crow Confluence” in Nepali).

The rocky highland stretching from Jomsom to Kagbeni–through which the Gandaki flows–is called Lower Mustang. Upper Mustang is where Damodar Kund is located, a lake that is the root source of all salagram silas.

 It was told that from here one treks to Damodar kund the source of all the saligrama silas ( Sree Moorthy ).

According to one version, the Salagramam Divya Desam is just the bank/bed of River Gandaki and not the Mukthinath temple. Few also claim Its Damodar kund .River Kaligandaki has its source in Damodar Kund and throughout its flow to south right up to Indian border carries a manifestation of lying lord Vishnu with Damodarkund jeweled as His auspicious Head and with Muktinath as the mouth, Shaligram Chakra as chest Kuru Kshetra as the waist, Devaghatam as the Knee and lastly the auspicious feet of lord Vishnu goes to the credit of Gajendra Moksha devadham,.

Such a beautiful elaboration of the lord, one may find starting from the auspicious lakes of Damodar Kund. The Damodar Kunda (lake) is situated rain shadow of High Himalayas north of Annapurna range.

The elevation of the Damodar Kunda is 4890 meters and it is a cold and windy place. According to another version, the Mukthinath temple is very much the Divya Desam of Salagramam. It is difficult to establish which of the two versions is right. Either way, there is no question that our  great  saint Thirumangai Azhwar visited at least the banks of the Gandaki River, as did Swamy Ramanuja.

And no matter which version is accurate, there is no taking away from the beauty of this Divya Desam and its surroundings. and one of the pAsuram, Tirumangai AzhwAr exhorts his mind to attain the Lord of Salagrama.

It was this Lord who, armed with bow and arrow, crossed forests inhabited by wild deer, elephants and horses, and then built a bridge of boulders to reach the high-walled fortress of Lanka and severed the ten heads of Ravana- the king of the RakshasAs glorifying LORD RAMAs avataram . The route to Damodar lake is three days walk north east from the main Mustang trekking route & very close to Tibetan border.

We had to drop the idea  of going into Upper Mustang as expensive permits are required from the Nepali authorities . Formerly the Gandaki River Valley was the most important trade route between India and Tibet. It was controlled by the Buddhist kingdom of Lo Manthang, which was of Tibetan culture.

But more than 200 years ago the Buddhist Raja of Lo Manthang allied with the Hindu Raja of Kathmandu in a war against Tibet.

This is why the present region of Mustang (Lo Manthang), which is populated mostly by Buddhist people with Mongolian features, is part of Nepal and not Tibet (now fully controlled by Communist China).

  Now the trekking trail takes us away from the bank of the Gandaki for a while. I along with my wife started chanting  Shri Vishnu sahasranaamam , while my eyes were immersed in the beauty of Lords own little world far away from material and karmic vasanas. . 

  Few foreigners along with their guide walk briskly before us cheering NAMASTE …

I feel their enthusiasm in trekking the mountains and truly with the protective wind shields, woolen socks, rock boots and body packs they were perfect mountaineers,  I avoided the trekking kit to tax my body in reaching Lords abode with a sincere vow as I did for Ahobilam and Tirumala.

Muktinath is situated at a height of 3,800 metres whereas jomsom is at 2713 metres.  The distance to Muktinath from Jomsom by walk is 21 kms (via Kagbeni) whereas now there is another short-cut which involves  climbing of a steep mountain but would save about 3-4 kms.   To reach Muktinath, we need to cross 3 settlements- Eklabhatti, Khinga, Jharkot (Earlier, piligrims used to go toMuktinath via Eklabhatti, Kagbeni, Jharkot).  One can find maps displayed on boards with the name of settlement, no. of hotels,lodges , distance to the next settlement and approximate time-only in these places, one can get drinks/ food etc) I could see my children moving away from us  quickly .

I wonder whether we can make it today . En route we see the skull of a yak. This classic symbol of desolation accentuates the atmosphere of loneliness that hangs over the Gandaki River Valley. Between Jomsom and Kagbeni one sees evidence of human habitation only rarely. We could see an   isolated stone hut of a herdsman. Nobody was home when we passed it .

A  metal suspension bridge  en route spans the Gandaki River Valley. What adds a cultural mystique to the mountain paths and the flat areas of the Kali Gandaki are the teams of yaks and mules that would traverse the steep slopes carrying supplies back and forth from each area.

The owner would be behind a team of 6 or more animals that methodically climb and descend (they could probably have done it blindfolded), stepping out of the way of persons who would approach from the opposite way.

Each would wear an enchanting bell (like one of those wind chimes) which would create a sattvic atmosphere, especially needed when you round a sharp corner on a narrow path and if without the bell… without a warning…well you tell me…you are quietly rounding a blind corner bend over a 500 meter canyon and suddenly you come nose to nose with a large personality with long horns…how would you react?

So the bells do provide tranquility and safe travels. On the pan of the Gandaki you will note on the bottom right-hand side of the picture a tiny line of such a team sauntering along. This gives you an appreciation for the vastness of the area. 

Incredibly strong winds often blow through the valley, and if you are crossing this bridge when such a wind comes up, you truly fear you’ll be blown off into the valley below . My wife pauses for rest on the east end of the bridge. Where I quickly take few pictures and shoot from my camcorder .

 As we continued our trek, we moved away from Kali Gandaki river  ,we could view her only from a distance.  Initially, the way was broad enough but it was a stony path. Though one doesn’t feel thirsty due to the chillness , it is advisable to carry a bottle of  water, some glucose, few apples etc on the way . Some  foreign tourists were  cycling on the steep mountains. They are fortunate to be there as It was sure Its HIS blessings they were there and who knows destined to get emancipation too.

          Now , we were surrounded by Annapurna mountains on one side and Dhaulagiri mountains on the other sides. With mountains all around, a pleasant chilly breeze and Kali Gandaki flowing below, the picturesque beauty was feast to the body mind and soul.   Visualizing the Viraata Purusha in our mind’s eye  moving upwards, the path was narrowing and in some places, we came to the edge of the cliff. We had to slowly walk forward by holding hands. This was becoming more adventurous.  Crossing  many mountains on the way and the connecting path is  usually narrow. 

 It took about 2 hours for us to reach the first settlement EKLABHATTI. At this point we are thankfully within sight of the town of Kagbeni. The trek through the valley involves is mostly flat and level. But the valley itself is some 2000 meters above sea level! Thus catching your breath is a problem, since there is less oxygen in the air than normal.

As we descend from the bridge to the valley floor we meet a herd of incredibly nimble mountain goats. At the upper edgey we  can see Ekla Bhatti, the southern “suburb” of Kagbeni. Behind , the holy Gandaki flows on her way from Kagbeni, visible in the distance As the sun shines  over the Himalayan horizon, we see the blackish waters of the Gandaki from a higher altitude.

I finally locate the sign board of Eklabatti where my children and the horseman are awaiting. The pony rider told us that from this place, there are 2 routes  – one towards Kagbeni and the other towards Khinga.  Kagbeni is a small developing village with staying facilities and people with sufficient time stay at kagbeni.    But as we were running short of time, we decided to go via Khinga. 

 Further  trail to Muktinath carries us out of the Gandaki River Valley into the soaring mountain heights. This is not easy going. The air was thin to begin with, but now as we trudge ever-higher in the hot sun  and the decreasing oxygen becomes more and more of a problem. In less than half and hour, we look down upon Kagbeni as if from an airplane. We met a good number of trekkers along the Jomsom-Kagbeni-Muktinath path. Americans, Australians, Britishers, Europeans, and local Nepalese were moving in scattered numbers. The trail winds along the side of a steep valley formed by a white-water tributary that rushes down to meet the Gandaki at Kagbeni. In the cliffside opposite are many caves.

The local Tibetan Buddhist monks and nuns sometimes retire to these caves for meditation and austerity. Chanting loudly Lords names and the mahamantra , We   climb the steep slippery mountain for about half an hour .  The pony rider advised us  not to look up or look down as it would instill fear in us we trek like sheeps..  There is a very narrow path where one can put only one foot carefully .  Children were frightened to sit on the pony but having come half the way, they had no other choice but to keep their eyes tightly closed and pray to Lord. We were passing thru a deserted place where there was no vegetation but only few mountain shrubs. WE were literally gasping for breath.

  Added to this, wind started blowing and it was becoming even more difficult to trek.  After climbing the steep mountain, we kept on walking on the narrow way for nearly an hour .  Suddenly the weather changed and it started drizzling.  We were unable to put a step further because it was slippery and the rains would make the road worse.  Added to that, there was no one in sight to help us in any adverse condition. Once again, our prayers to Lord did not go in vain. It stopped drizzling and there was only cool soft breeze.

Prayed to Bhaktha Hanuman for His intervention and all of a sudden  It stopped drizzling.  Soft cool breeze was blowing .  WE felt as if Vayu Bhagavan was being kind to us as we are on the way to have darshan of Lord Vishnu.  It was 4 PM in the evening.  Rested for a while at one of the way side restaurants and with the ingredients like milk powder, sugar, which we had taken  with us, prepared some hot drink and we are charged up once again.  It may be mentioned that enroute at the settlements, the hotels provide limited variety of fast food like rotis/ noodles and hot water.   

The pony rider asked us to walk fast as it was getting dark  at 5 PM itself ,but as we are not used to walking, we could not do so.  The trek from Khinga was not very difficult. In and around Khinga, we came across rich vegetation, and the dwellers in these places, polite by nature,  were seen knitting mufflers and other woolen products.  Apples were available in plenty , though a bit costly compared to Jomsom, we could get them for Rs.10/- per kg.  On the way, we had to cross few mountain streams while trekking which was refreshing.  It was becoming dark at 5 itself and by 6 P.M., we could not see anything.

  Exhausted, we decided to stay overnight in the nearest settlement.  The inn-keeper charged Rs.300/- INR for 4 beds.  After finishing our dinner, we retired for the night.  It was very very cold. Although short of breath, and having to stop every few hundred feet and rest, and although it took me 6 hours to get up there, we made it. Practically it was a miracle. Although sore tonight, I am not at all sorry that I went there and I’d gladly go again in the future Next day  morning,  we woke up at 430 AM and could see the sun rise at 5.30AM . It was calm and serene throughout. We checked out of  the inn and continued our journey.  It took about an hour for us to approach the village of Jarkot.  Looking  carefully we  can see the dark red Buddhist monastery perched on a hilltop at the edge of this village. It is 500 years old. The Muktinath temple is about an hour’s walk beyond Jarkot. On the top of the mountain is the white lip of a glacier that feeds the Gandaki with its icy waters. Having left Jarkot behind, we are approaching the Dreamland Hotel, which is the first building visible as one enters the village clustered at the foot of the hill of Muktinath. The trek is really tough as the altitude is beginning to increase steadily. 

This is the last settlement enroute to Muktinath.  The temperature was almost 3 degree and due to the numbness in our feet and hands, we could not walk further.  (Usually, trekking shoes are worn by piligrims  which was overseen by us as a part of our vow ).  Jharkot has many lodges with staying facilities etc and usually pilgrims/trekkers who visit Muktinath stay in Jharkot.  Though a room was booked in Hotel Muktinath at Jharkot, we could not make it the previous day as we could not proceed further. We could have a clear glimpse of Muktinath from Jharkot itself.  After walking few yards, we started climbing few stone steps (may be 700 or so)  laid in an improper way with  no  proper finishing etc. The pony drive, motor drive is only upto Jharkot. From Jharkot  , everyone invariably has to climb these steps.

It took about half an hour or so for us to reach the temple.

Total trekking time taken by us is  9 hours.

Usually, people who are used to regular walks, jogging, trekking etc can  finish within 6 hours. The dark red structure behind is the entrance gate. As one ascends you reach plateau after plateau where you think that you have reached the summit, but it just keeps on going. Because of the altitude and our physical state you are forced to rest on the way up (sometimes after every 100 steps) The large stone stairs at the closing intervals (almost like a malicious test) takes you to the final test of patience in seeing GOD .

Well! Soul stirring experiences at the cost of trimming the body ..and that is what is LIFE ….Realizations streaming ….This body ..mind and spirit in equilibrium is what is good quality of self realisation …The MIND understands and the body too ..as the soul is going to meet the supersoul ( PARAMATMAN) Finally you do reach the town of Muktinath and above the town (another 45 minutes) is the  temple built in a glacier (from where the mountain pan is taken).. En route  we happened to see helipads.  Helicopters from Pokhara/Jomsom upto Muktinath  and back fly daily.

During  peak season, the copter flies many times . Also, we were told that the weather conditions do not affect the copters much.  We happened to meet few  South Indians  who had come in package tours organized by travel agents in Chennai . It takes about 40 minutes to reach Muktinath from Pokara and  half an hour’s stay at Muktinath.   The package would cost 21000 INR . They however miss the thrill of trekking the holiest mountains.

This is safe for physically unfit and aged people.  We are entering the entrance of the temple now. A  few  Buddhist prayer wheels at the entrance to the Muktinath complex is visible  These rotatable  cylinders are a common sight in Nepal. They are inscribed with the Tibetan Buddhist mahamantra Om Mani Padme Hum–“Aum! The jewel in the lotus! Hail!” The jewel is the pure spirit soul and the lotus is the purified body of the true follower of Buddha’s way. Tibetan Buddhist turn these prayer wheels to earn merit. Simply pushing on them to get them revolving is supposed to be as good as chanting the mantra as many times as the wheel then revolves. Having passed through the entrance gate, we proceed to the complex’s first shrine. Muktinath is sacred to both Vaisnavas and Buddhists.  My dream comes true. Adiyen along with my family members are very much in the 106^th  Divyadesam …….

This is the Muktinath Temple proper. Lord Muktinath is, for Vaisnavas, Sri Padmapani (the form of Lord Visnu from whose lotus feet sacred waters flow). Tibetan Buddhists worship Him as Adi-Buddha. Lord Muktinath’s form is manifest in brass. In bodily shape and posture He resembles the Yoga Narayana Deity Atop the hill behind the Muktinath Temple is a Buddhist shrine.  Its  9 A.M. 

A huge bell is hung in front of the gate. There are 108 shower spouts coming from the glacier on the back wall of the shrine with the best water that makes the journey a complete success. Since the water is ice cold and due to limited time allowed for darshan, most of them sprinkled water from the 108 gomukhis behind the temple  .Thanking Lord profusely tears rolling I brave to take  a bath  under the gomukhs. My children run under the gomukhs  reciting Dwayam. Atop the hill behind the  Muktinath Temple is a Buddhist shrine. Incredibly, some Buddhist nuns who serve at Muktinath daily climb this hill to also perform worship up there Jutting from the stone wall that encloses Muktinath Temple on three sides are 108 gomukhs or cows’ mouths. From each mouth icy glacial water flows. The water is considered as pure as the Ganges, which flows from Gomukh in the Indian Himalayas. ! The tremendous Nilgiri peak overlooking Jomsom.  The Water from Gandaki is routed through these man-made gomukhis which are closely built ,the distance between the gomukhis may be hardly a foot .   WE felt as if a hammer had struck our heads after passing thru these gomukhis. Added to this, we were asked to have a dip in 2 small tanks situated in front of the temple.  The temperature for the day was recorded at 3 degrees and the chilly water was almost in a frozen condition . Unlike in  Vishaal Badri  in Bhadrinath , where we are greeted with steaming hot water, here it was icy cold . After changing into dry clothes in separate rooms provided for ladies and gents, we went inside the temple.  The garbagriham was closed and we were asked to wait for few mintues.

Meanwhile, we did pradakshinam around the temple chanting Harinaam . The temple is very small.  In front of the garbagriham, towards our right, there is a deity of our  Jagatha Acharyar, Swamy  Ramanujar.  . After taking acharyar’s blessings, we approached the Thiruma mani mantapam to have darshan of Perumal. The moment we   had darshan of the divya mangala swaroopam of the Lord, Sri Srimoorthi, we forgot the cold and the  body pains.  The enchanting beauty of the Lord cannot be described in words. The deity at Muktinath has a large brass kavach ( armour) with a very transcendental smile . On His left and right are Bhu and Sri, two  divine energies of the Lord manifested in their female forms Though in the divya desa naamavali, Perumal is known as “SRIDEVI NAYIKA SAMETHA SRI SRIMOORTHI”, we found ubhaya naachiyaars, Sridevi and Bhoodevi Thayar on either sides of Perumal flanking Him.

Perumal is seen in sitting posture while Ubhaya Naachiyars are in Nindra Thirukolam. As it is often mentioned  that Adisesha always performs various kainkaryams to Perumal, here Adisesha is seen spreading hoods like an umbrella.   

Garudazhwar and other saaligramams are also worshipped. Inside the garbagriham, near the entrance on the right side, there is a small deity  of Buddha. Muktinath is holy place both for Hindus and Buddhists. Even foreigners enter the temple and have a darshan of the Lord even though they do not know the significance of the place, they offer their respects to the Lord.  It must be only due to their poorva janma sukrutam.

I could relate the darshan exactly with THIRUVENGADAMUDAIYANS darshanam.

A Buddhist lady accepted our offerings to Perumal- vastrams for Perumal and Thayar, dry fruits, honey, sandal paste, rose water etc. which we had carried with us for offering it to Lord.  This lady gives theertha prasadam and offers neivedyam and is restrained from doing Thirumanjanam to the Lord.  Unfortunately, the male priest was not available in the temple and hence we could not perform Thirumanjanam.  However, the lady offered us to take one saaligramam outside the garbagriham and perform Thirumanjanam but Adiyen felt that Adiyen  was incompetent, hence did not accept the offer.  There was no rush and we were able to have darshan to our heart’s content.

Perumal’s smiling Thirumugam is very enchanting and we could not take our eyes off .  We recited 108 divya desa naamavali in front of Perumal and recited Thirumangai Azhwar’s pasurams on this divya desam.  In ecstasy, I remembered Thirumangai mannan’s pasurams on Naimisaaranyam which is full of repentance and started reciting the same in the temple.  My children braved to sing Annamaya Kirtans amidst the few piligrims.  Adiyen thought of everyone associated with me and prayed the Lord to bestow moksham and best devotional service  on them .  

Adiyen prayed to the Lord to give me another chance to visit this shrine  again and give another opportunity to visit all the divya desams . The  Nepali security emphasized  that the temple was 500 years old and it would be closed during severe winter (i.e. from October to February) every year.  Due to time constraint, we left the temple reluctantly after taking few photographs.  I had heard that Westerners aren’t allowed in the temple of Muktinath, but that’s not true. It is said that Badrinath sent Muktinath to this place, high up in the mountains.  I overhear a foreigner saying  that anyone who takes the trouble to visit that place will get liberation. Adiyen , however, did not pray for liberation. Rather, Adiyen  prayed for pure devotional service.  A five minute walk down the temple towards left led us to a place where we can see 2 wonders :- First, fire coming from water and fire coming from stone.  This fire is emitted continuously and has to peep into a small opening to see the same.

A natural blue fire can be clearly seen from water which is unbelievable. This is a representation of Brahma, Shiva and Vishnu as it was here Brahma and Shiva did penance to obtain Lord Vishnu’s grace.  Lord Vishnu appeared before them and as per their desire, continued to reside in this place.  This is also considered to be a  Buddhist shrine because one Buddhist monk got enlightenment here.  As a proof of this, we could find various stupas of Buddhist monks and their dwarapaalakas.   After thanking Perumal, we left the place at 1100 hours.  On the way back, we happened to visit a  small thirumaligai  run by  a Srivaishnava, a disciple of Chinna Jeeyarswamy.  

He greeted us warmly and offered us some herbal drink which would act as an anecdote against the  biting cold weather.  Infact, despite our bath in icy cold water, none of us fell sick . When Adiyen  was expressing my desire to collect saaligramams silas for worshipping , swamy was kind , he immediately gave me 5 saaligramams murthys worshipped by the mutt  , out of which 2 were collected from Damodar Kund and one moorthi was receiving his upacharams daily reciting Acharyar dhaniyan and Thirupallandu. Was blessed indeed .

LORD was very kind to come along with us to our home to be with us .

Tears rolling chanting dwayam adiyen offered humble pranaams to all .Felt my purpose of birth was fulfilled.

In a period of 10 years  many more  Sree moorthy ( saigrama silas ) arrived  at adiyens  residence  ( Thiruvengadam ) and are being worshipped  and adiyen never attempted to count the lordships ….  After  settling down , we started our return journey to Jomsom. We were told that it would take 4 hours for us to reach Jomsom as it is easier to walk down the mountains. My children had already left on the ponies with the horse man  along with our luggage and PERUMAL  ( Lordships ) . We were lagging behind.  Added to this, we missed our route.  Though we were doubtful about the route, we could not get clarification as there was no one around us.  Guessing our way, we climbed down the hill and reached a cliff which was the dead end. Below the cliff,  as we saw Gandaki  river flowing, we guessed that it should be the route and while trying to get down, we nearly had  almost a fall.  Clinging to each other both of us were totally perplexed, frightened and chanted loudly Hanuman Chalisa.

 Luckily we spotted few farmers who were working in a far away field and waived a cloth towards them .  Immediately a young lad of about 15 years came to our rescue.  After saving us from this fall, he accompanied us for half an hour or so and led us to the correct path.  He told that we had come near Kagbeni village and that particular place was the route to Domodar kund where the origin of saaligramam begins  and that Eklabhatti was far off. Silently prayed LORD for a darshan at Daamodar kund soon.  Added to this, due to heavy winds, we were finding it very difficult to put even a step further..  By straying on the wrong path, we had to walk for another 2 hours. Finally, we reached Eklabhatti at 1700 hours.

Meanwhile, children were worried and were enquiring about our whereabouts.  As we had gone on the wrong side, they only got negative reply which added to their worry.  Meanwhile, they went to the banks of Kali Gandaki river and while reciting the sloka told by my father , they were able to collect some saaligramama moorthies right from the  holy river.  Out of these, one murthi was that of  Lord Sri Rama, one Sri Srinivasar, Varahar, Matsya murthi and few Hiranya garbhams.  They also collected 2 big saaligramams which we wanted to worship at our Kushaiguda Sri Venkateshwara temple.  But maybe it was  Perumal’s will  to stay back in Jomsom itself as  the airport authorities did not allow us to take the bigger silas. It was already dark when we reached Eklabhatti and as we had another 1 hour trekking, the pony rider advised my wife to ride on pony.

My younger daughter trekked with me for more than  one and half hour amidst chanting bhajans and maha mantra  We reached Jomsom at 19 hours.  We were pleased to hear about our ticket confirmation from the hotel owner.  Our flight was scheduled to leave Jomsom at 9 A.M. the following morning. Thanked LORD for all His grace and retired for the night.  We called home from the satellite telephone and informed Lords grace in giving us a darshan .After all any SriVaishnavaite desires he vist all the Divya desams and take to spirituality .Our Elders were very pleased for our children braving to reach the holy dhaam..It was a pleasant experience. Next day, the hotel manager approached us and informed that the flight to Pokhara was cancelled due to technical failure of the aircraft. On hearing this, we were totally shattered .  He advised us to either take a helicopter (a private one) which he would be arranging for others by paying for the tickets in  dollars (INR 30,000)  or either go by jeep upto 20 kms, walk for about 15 hours to reach Thathopani, take a bus to Pokhra which would take about 20 hours.  As the second option was impossible, we decided to opt for the first one and gave our consent.   Arrangements were made to get a helicopter from Katmandu .  Though the scheduled departure was at 12 noon as promised by the hotel manager, the helicopter arrived at Jomsom at 1600 hours only.  All of us boarded it and reached Pokhara at 1700 hours. The 20 minute journey by helicopter was  very inconvenient and fearful. Worst with noise and full of congestion. The very rare privelage of travelling in a helicopter was being fullfilled may be I felt.   Adiyen was continuously chanting Maha mantra and the moment we left the copter, 2 devotees who hail from England  approached me and offered Prasad saying that they had done Pournami pooja at Muktinath, a day before we reached the holy shrine. I was happy to learn that they have migrated to Kashi and having undertaken penance, they are simultaneously doing research on Vedas. It is only due to the abundant grace of Perumal on this sinner that Adiyen could visit all the divya desams with my wife and children  and attribute this to my previous janma wherein  adiyen would have been associated with Srivaishnavas by touching the dust of their feet or  must have done some petty kainkaryam which yielded this fruit of visiting the divya desams in this janma.  May the divine forms of Perumal of all divya desams remain fresh in our memories and may our lips continuously chant the holy myriad names of the Lord.  May our visit to the divya desams remain fresh in our minds so that when we leave this human body, we would be qualified to get moksha. The cab driver whom we got used to address as “kaka” was waiting for us at the airport.  We rushed to the hotel where we had left our baggages and without losing any time, we left the place to go to Janakpur.  We thanked  the Hotel manager and his brother-in-law for all his intervention and help. But for him, it would have been impossible for us to go to Muktinath.

We decided that we offer our prayers to Sita Piratti .Taking clue from the fellow Nepalis we dashed into the cab with the available 24 hrs left . We traveled whole night and at 01.00 hrs we alighted at a thickly populated area and rested. At 5AM we resumed our journey to Janakpur which is located near Bihar border in Nepal is one of the most attractive tourist spots.  This is the place where Goddess Sita was born and the place where the famous “SITA RAAMA KALYANAM “ took place.  So, we didn’t want to miss this.  It takes about 8 hours to reach from Pokhara  and we had to cross Chitwan jungle.  We reached Janakpur at 0800 hours in the morning .  The driver informed us that it would take another 10 hours for us to reach Gorakhpur provided there was no traffic jam. We had to hasten ourselves as we had to be in Gorakpur at any cost that night. We quickly went inside the palace –converted into temple.  Prayers on Goddess sita was written in Hindi on display boards.  Morning abhishekam was just over and we had to wait for few minutes to have darshan of Thayar.   In the  sanctum sanctorum, Lord Rama, Sita Devi and King Janaka are seen.  During aarthi, prayers on  Sita Devi were sung. Apart from this, the palace houses other shrines too.  In one of the shrines, we could find full family of Janaka – Lord Rama –Sita, Lakshmana-Urmila, Bharata, Shatruguna –Srutikeerthi, King Janaka, his brother, his queen .  Apart from this, this shrine houses 3,000 saaligramama silas which were covered by a satin  cloth. We proceeded to Sita Rama Kalyana Mantapam which is situated just outside the palace on the left side. Rs.5/- is charged as  entrance fee . A big mantapam in the centre with life –size images . Lord Rama, and  Sita in Kalyana Thirukolam in sitting posture,Lakshmana, Bharata and Shatruguna also in Kalyana Thirukolam, King Janaka and his brother in standing posture, Dasaratha,his queens, Sage  Vasishta and other rishi in sitting postures, Brahma, Shiva and other devas blessing. The sight was a real feast to the eyes.  Around the mantapam, on 4 sides, there are 4 sannidhis for all the 4 brothers with their wives. We left Janakpur at 0930 hours and having visited all the places as per our schedule, we continued to reach our final destination, Gorakhpur.   We crossed Nepal border at 1500 hours (that was the last day of our permit) in bihar.  The highway roads in Bihar is the most horrible one with full of bumps and it took more than an hour to cross the border on the Indian side. There is absolutely no cleanliness, no hygiene, no traffic rule, no proper roads.  Uttar Pradesh which we entered around 6 P.M. was more horrible with traffic jams. We were stuck in traffic jam for more than 5 hours. No police to regularize the traffic.  We learnt that it was very common and most of the truck drivers had left their trucks on the road itself and were loitering.  Once again , our sincere prayers to Lord Hanuman was answered.  After hours of pleading the truck drivers, we somehow got way to move . But the way was not sufficient for a car to pass through. the the driver literally tilted the car because of muddy road on his left and drove only on 2 wheels carefully .  With great difficulty, the impossible task was made possible by the grace of Lord.  We reached Gorakhpur at 2300 hours in the night.  We checked into one of the hotels near the station, and retired for the night.  Thanked God profusely for the successful, though was seeming  impossible adventurous trip to Nepal. We boarded Secunderabad-Gorakhpur Express at 0600 hours on the following morning and reached Secunderabad at 1830 hours the following day.  Thus ended our trip to Saaligramam ( MUKTHINAATH KSHETRAM)   After a short break of 2 days, we went to Tirumala with our parents and thanked God for His abundant Grace on us all over  . As part of our VIMSATI DARSHANAM scheme, we participated in Suprabhata seva, Unjal seva, Archana Anantara seva for 2 days and also performed Thirukalyana utsavam to Malayappa swamy ( our parents performed the same).

 WE also visited Thiruvellikeni and thanked Sri Parthasarathy Perumal for successful completion of divya desa yaatrai as way back in 1998, we had prayed to this Perumal for visiting  all the srivaishnava divya desams.

. During this trip, Adiyen’s faith was put to test  several times and Adiyen passed this only due to the grace of Lord and His devotees. Adiyen may be contacted for any guidance while planning for this yathirai.

Adiyen Ramanuja dasan